Saturday, 4 December 2010

How to Boost Your Confidence when Horse Riding

How to Boost Your Confidence when Horse Riding



If you need to boost your confidence when starting to horse ride or are already a rider, then this how-to is for you.

Steps

  1. Choose a horse that is very quiet to ride and handle.
  2. If you take lessons, inform the instructor that you don't have a lot of confidence with horses yet, and you would like to start out on a very calm horse. DO NOT stay quiet or agree to take an ornery horse just because you don't want to look bad.
  3. Spend time with the horse. Pet him, brush him and give him a bath. Do all the tack work yourself, or as much as possible if you are a beginner.
  4. Learn about the signals your horse gives you.
  5. Read up on horse riding with a good book. Especially focus on how to properly ride and how to read a horses' body language.
  6. Get someone else (preferably the owner) to ride the horse in a walk, trot, canter and maybe even go over a small jump. Notice that although the owner may be more experienced than you, he can still handle the horse very well, and the horse will handle just as well for you if you don't get excited or rush him.
  7. When you first get on, spend time finding a good seat and getting into position. Don't worry about getting out and riding quickly - be comfortable. If you notice anything odd, such as a crooked saddle or the reins look wrong, get down and fix them now.
  8. Walk the horse first. This is important for you, so you can get yourself together, and the horse, because it warms him up so he doesn't pull a muscle. This is also a good time to find any problems with the tack, such as a bit that isn't working right.
  9. Go slowly. If your teacher wants you to move on, say that you don't feel comfortable yet. Your teacher knows what he is doing, and if he says he is confident you can do it, trust him.
  10. Ride as often as you can.
  11. LEARN HOW TO FALL. DO NOT throw out an arm (you will probably break it), and move away from the horse as quickly as possible if he was throwing a fit.
  12. If you have taken a bad fall, or something happens to make you really afraid of horses, think back to everything before that. One bad fall after a year of riding is only one small event after a lot of hours on a horse. The chances that it will happen again are very small.

Tips

  • Unless you are actually injured, NEVER stop riding if you fall. If you do not get back on the horse, you are teaching yourself that falling is a bigger deal then it really is, and the horse might learn that throwing you off is a good way to get rid of you.
  • Always have good control of your horse. Make sure the reins are a good length and your seat is right.
  • Find something you are good at, like trail obstacles, and always finish up with that.
  • Every time you ride, practice something you aren't good at. For example, I am terrible at jumping (after 2 years of riding). I spent all last week jumping, and I'm beginning to improve. Last week was also the first time ever I fell off a horse, but I got right back on and kept jumping for another half hour or so.
  • Take things slowly.
  • If you only ride Western, try English, and vice-versa. You may feel more comfortable in one or the other.
  • If a horse "crow-hops" or tries to buck, LEAN BACK. If he rears, lean forward.
  • If a horse is being badly behaved, try to find a reason why they are acting like this, it could be that the rider isn't giving the correct aids or that the horse is in pain. For example if a horse bucks or rears or displays other bad habits, it could be due to a problem with tack, and it is advisable if a horse shows continual bad behaviour, to get the horses back and teeth etc. checked, it can also be due to hormones for example an in season mare may behave differently than normal and be more sensitive or grumpy.you should never punish a horse for not doing what you ask just make alterations to your riding and ask again, if the horse still doesn't respond then back up your aid with a crop to get the horse listening, it's not a form of punishment and shouldn't be used in anger, as this won't enhance your confidence.
    • Always concentrate on riding properly. Keeping your heels down and your head up really does help with balance.
  • Ask for a quiet or older horse then when you start gaining confidence move onto a more spirted horse.
  • Don't be afraid of sharing your thoughts towards an activity. If you can tell your instructor WHY you feel uncomfortable, you will feel much better, and you will solve your problems easier.
  • Analyze your situation. Be honest with your riding ability.
  • always focus on the positive things you did in a riding session for example; good upward transitions, my lower leg position was good ect. inexperienced or novice riders commonly focus on the negitive things that happened, you need to try to change your mind set and make it more positive.
  • If you're a beginner, after something big like your first canter, remember to take a long deep breathe and go back to sitting deep in the saddle. Make sure you're going with the horse's movements; that way, if he canters off, you go with him. Relax, this is something that comes in handy which is why after a jump or a canter you should take a long deep breath, then concentrate on moving the same way as your horse.
  • Believe you can do it, keep saying in your head, i can do it i can do it, it really helps alot.
  • Believe in your instructor, if you don't think you can do it well she/he does or she wouldn't of said it in the first place.
  • Once you have done something for the first time ie. your first canter it will be alot easier the next time you do it.

Warnings

  • If you lie about your true feelings towards a riding activity, you will be the one to suffer, and your fears will be harder to solve.
  • Always wear a helmet and boots when riding a horse.
  • Never ride alone.
  • Never become frustrated with the horse. If he is well-trained, it is probably YOU that is messing up, rather than him.

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How to Find the Right Horse Breed for You

How to Find the Right Horse Breed for You



So you want a horse for either yourself or your child. Well, here's your way to be sure about the kind of horse to look for.

Steps

  1. Decide what you're going to be using your horse for. Maybe dressage, the art of lateral movements and obedience. Or cross country, racing along the field over difficult obstacles. Could it be racing, speeding down a race track at 45 mph? Many do show jumping, a competitive way to show off your skill. Horses could be fancy competitors for experienced riders. You could get a pony for someone who's inexperienced, or just for fun.
  2. Certain breeds have general temperaments. Some low-key and good-natured breeds of equine are are:

Tips

  • Remember these are just the basics of good breeds! You can see all of the breeds at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horse_breeds
  • Also, the breed is not everything! Breeds can do a lot, but how the horse is trained does even more to the character of the horse.
  • You can also research horse breeds for the prettiest, calmest, shortest, and tallest by checking out books from the library or just researching online (like http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horse_breeds).
  • Temperaments also varies, this was just the general idea.

Related wikiHows


Sources and Citations

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How to Get a Horse Under Control

How to Get a Horse Under Control



Some horses don't listen to you, and others just get plain out of control. A crazy horse can hurt not only himself but also his rider, and the behavior must be dealt with immediately.
If a horse is so out of control that you feel you are in danger of getting hurt before you can get him back in control, do not hesitate do do an emergency dismount.

Steps

  1. Relax first if your horse is acting up while you are riding. Horses can sense nervousness and tension, and it will affect their performance. Even if you are nervous, scared, or tense, try not to let the horse know it.
  2. Check your riding position. Are you clenching the horse with your heels? This may cause him to go faster. Are you yanking on his mouth or holding your reins high and tight? Both of these things may confuse and/or agitate your horse. If you are doing something like this, fix it.
  3. Try riding him in a tight circle or a figure eight if your horse is still jumpy. Show him that you are the boss, but don't haul on his head. If you are riding in a group, get your instructor's permission to let you use the whole arena for a minute so you can get your horse under control.
  4. Think about why your horse is misbehaving. Is it storming or about to storm? Is something nearby making a loud noise? Is another horse crowding him? If none of these things are happening, keep reading.
  5. Inspect the horse's tack. If you find any of the following defects in the tack, replace it immediately. Check for:
    • Worn-out leather that might rub
    • Pieces of tack that are too tight or too loose
    • Sharp objects embedded in or rough edges on the saddle
  6. Consider that the girth may be rubbing. Try a different type of girth and see if his behavior improves. If he is wearing a breast collar, see if it is too tight (it may be pinching him) or too loose (it may be bouncing around and annoying or rubbing on him). Ideally, you should be able to fit about four fingers under the breast collar. The bit may also be pinching his mouth or too strong for him. If you have a gently curb or snaffle bit, stick with it, but if you have a stronger curb, kimberwik, or gag, consider switching to a gentler bit.
  7. Try changing the way you are controlling the horse. Remember, every horse is different. If you usually ride a horse that needs strong cues and you have gotten in the habit of practically kicking to make him speed up, consider that this horse may not need such an aggressive kick. Try using softer aids and don't pull so hard on his mouth.
  8. Take off a crop, double bridle, or spurs if you're using them. They may scare the horse, annoy him, or he just may dislike them. The horse may not need artificial aids.
  9. Consult your veterinarian if the tack fits and you're riding well but the bad behavior continues. Maybe the horse has a sore back or other physical problem, especially if this behavior is out of character for him.
  10. Spin the horse in a tight circle if you ever feel like you are out of control on a horse. Don't panic! Just make sure your actions are clear to him and that what he is doing will not get him any where.

Tips

  • Try to give a horse something to do other than the undesired behavior. For example, if your horse is thinking about spooking, just squeeze hard with your legs to tell him, "Forward!"
  • If you are worried about being injured but can't switch horses, use peacock (safety) stirrups, wear a helmet, and remember not to ride in tennis shoes. Always wear boots. Gloves are also a good idea, because they give you a better grip on the reins.
  • Some horses will respond with almost no aids. Just shift your weight and bring your hands forward, and see if he responds.
  • Maybe part of the problem is that you are moving against the horse and not with him. When you are riding, sway with the horse.
  • Sometimes horses will disrespect you because they do not know you. Take some time to sit near your horse and pat him. Feed him some carrots and groom him. Try to get used to him and form a stronger bond.

Warnings

  • Do not get angry with your horse, because anger can only lead to problems.
  • A rearing problem can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Get an experienced rider to school a rearing horse.
  • If your tack is the cause of the problem, replace it immediately. The defect will only get worse over time.

Things You'll Need

  • Patience
  • Riding skills
  • Soft hands
  • Unclenched heels
  • Tack (saddle pad, saddle, bridle, and maybe a halter just in case you fall)
  • and of course, a horse!

Related wikiHows



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How to Buy a Horse

How to Buy a Horse



Buying a horse is a big investment, and owning one takes a lot of time and money, but it does have so many great, memorable rewards. Before you buy a horse, you should make sure you have found one that fits your personality and other possible riders, and is suitable for what you want to do. There are a lot of pitfalls that may not only be expensive, but heartbreaking. Find the right horse and you can have a long, happy relationship.

Steps for Preparation

  1. Make sure you really want a horse, and if you are having to read this, try to contact a trainer and let them know that you plan on buying a horse in the future. This will catch their attention as you might be a long term client, they already know the ins and outs of the horse world, and will be a great help. Make sure you realize the level of commitment required and the effect it will have on you and your family.
  2. If you're getting regular or any type of riding lessons, be sure to tell your instructor or coach that you are looking to buy a horse or pony. Often they have clients that may be selling a horse, and your instructor may be able to help you try a particular horse out.
  3. Learn all you can about horse management. This should include basic horse health and equine first aid. See Related wikiHows. Also go to your local library and look for all the horse related books.
  4. Learn your local laws. From equine liability to whether there is a local tax on livestock that can reproduce (mares & stallions), to fire code laws for stables, it helps to have all the information.
  5. Learn about your local resources. Find out about boarding facilities, tack shops, feed stores, farmers that produce hay, vets and farriers are in your area, and where the nearest equine hospital and horse ambulance service is.
  6. Make sure that you have access to a feed supplier, as a horse is a 'real life garden disposal unit', and they need to be fed. Usually a local farrier is able to include you in his or her rounds, but make sure that you have phone numbers of a few, in case you can't get hold of your regular one.
  7. A reputable equine vet is essential. You will want to have Experienced horsemen (and or women) to be able to call to ask for advice and in the begining, look over your horse.
  8. Figure what you are going to pay for your horse’s upkeep. Go to a feed stockist and price the basic feed (hay, chaff and pellets), then add the cost of a saddle, bridle, saddle cloth, lead, halter, bit, grooming kit, and water containers. (This would be an outright cost, but the upkeep would be in addition to this). Include the cost of transport if you do not own your own horse float or truck, as well as stable.
  9. Don't forget to budget for:
    • Horse food (Hay and some kind of feed)
    • Decent tack (saddle and bridle)
    • Regular vet visits
    • Deworming
    • Shots
    • Regular farrier visits (shoeing or trimming)
    • Emergency treatment
    • Riding lessons
    • Training
    • Equipment and supplies
    • All appropriate medical check ups and supplies
  10. Find a suitable place to keep your horse. Keeping your horse on your own or rented land should be done only by knowledgeable and experienced horsepeople. Livery/boarding yards are more suitable for a first-time horse owner. Look in ads in local papers, equestrian magazines and on the Internet. Ask in local tack shops and riding schools. If a yard (stable) has no spaces, ask them to recommend another yard.
  11. Visit a number of boarding facilities and ask about hours, the cost, feeding schedule, as well as what you'll be expected to do. If it's rough board, you will have to feed, water, and clean your horse's area every day yourself. If it is full board, all you have to do is pay! Choose one that meets your horse's needs (e.g. safe, all-year turnout), where you feel comfortable (e.g. friendly people), and that meets your needs (e.g. an indoor school, showers) in that order. Some barns cater to young riders, while others prefer adults-only.
  12. Secure a space at a yard you like. At good yards spaces are rarely available and fill fast. Be prepared to pay a weekly/monthly fee to keep the space reserved.
  13. If you plan to have your horse at your house, have an expert help you plan the fencing. Make sure the fencing is secure and is taller than 1.5 meters and that there is no wire or anything that the horse can injure itself on. Do not use barbed wire. Ensure you have an adequate water container to supply large amounts of water, have a separate feed dish away from the water.

Searching for Your Horse

  1. Make a list of what you want the horse to be. This can include, size, gender, age, health, discipline and training, color, price, breed, and pedigree.
  2. Tell people that you are looking for a horse. Word of mouth is the best way to find a horse. Tell people like instructors, farriers, vets and tack shop owners. These people have a lot of contact with the horse owners.
  3. Advertise the fact you are looking for a horse. ‘Horse Wanted’ signs can go up in local tack shops, vet clinics, local and national horse magazines, and the Internet.
  4. Look for for sale ads in local tack shops, vet clinics, local and national horse magazines, and the Internet (dreamhorse.com works well).
  5. Ask around for a dealer with a good reputation.
  6. If you are new with owning horses, a good bet would be buying one 'used' horse which would usually have a better temperment and the horse would have been ridden already. If you are buying a horse like this, make sure the rider has a similar riding level to yours or else danger may occur. The average family horse will often make great horses for new riders.

Assessing a Horse

  1. Make a list of things you want to ask the owner. For example:
    • Confirm everything in the advert; age, height, colour, breed etc
    • History and breeding
    • Competition and medical history
    • Reason for sale
    • Any vices or bad habits (biting, kicking, bucking, cribbing)
    • The horse’s current management
    • Any security markings and registrations (microchipping, breed societies)
    • If tack/equipment is included or can be bought cheaply from the current owner
    • How well the horse travels
  2. Contact the owner, of any horse that matches your criteria.
  3. Ask as many questions as possible to avoid wasted trips to view unsuitable horses.
  4. Check with any competition bodies or hunts to see if the owner's claims of wins, etc. are true. If the horse is security marked you may be able to check to see if the horse is stolen. Find out about stolen horse databases in your country. See External Links.
  5. Visit the horse at least twice!
    • First visit Turn up a little earlier than agreed and try to see the horse handle in the stable/field. Ask to see him in different situations depending on what you want to do with him, and what the owner has claimed the horse can do; i.e. ridden by the owner/a child and by you, in traffic, in the stable and paddock, with other horses etc. If tack/equipment is included in the price, also inspect that.
    • Second visit If you think the horse is worth a second visit, take an experienced friend or professional with you on one of the visits. Someone that knows your level of riding is best, like your instructor. Be prepared to pay for the time of a professional. When you find a horse you like, the best advice is "sleep on it". Don't just accept the horse and hand over the money. On the second visit, maybe try negotiating the price.
    • Get The Horse On Trial Though many people do not like to have their horse on trial, it makes the decision making a lot easier. It allows you to ride the horse for 2 weeks, having it at your house, and it also allows you to take it to Pony Club or to a Show and see how it performs. Discuss this with the owner of the horse, you may be able to come up with a decision. (Most trials are a 1 or 2 week term, but some can be up to 1 month or more, in this time you are responsible for the horse, including financially.)

Buying the Horse

  1. Tell the owner if you want to buy. Agree on a price, subject to vetting, and ask to put down a deposit (10% of the price is fair) to secure the horse.
  2. Have the vet come and check the horse before you put full money down, this is expensive, but most insurance companies demand a certificate anyway.
  3. Find out what the horse has been fed. You must change the diet slowly over a week or two. Buy feed from the current owner if necessary.
  4. Insure the horse before you transport him.
  5. Prepare a safe area, either a stable or a paddock with friendly horses. Get any basic equipment for feeding, grooming, traveling and some rugs if the horse needs them. You may get some of these with the horse.
  6. Find a way to transport your horse to your horse's new home. If you don’t have a trailer or horsebox you can hire them with a driver or self-drive. Find out the law about transporting horses, and if your driving licence covers it.
  7. Allow your horse to settle in peacefully, and be careful introducing it to new horses. Try and keep to the horse's old routine as closely as possible for the first week.

Negotiating

  • Don’t choose a horse just because it’s cheap. A problem horse is not for a beginner and they will cost more (in terms of money and sanity) in the long run.
  • Less attractive horses, horses with superficial scars or growths, horses of a less popular color and part, cross or unknown breeds, often go cheaper while not being less suitable, unless you intend to show.
  • Many owners are more willing to give you tack and equipment or transport the horse for you, than lower the price.
  • Buy at the end of the competition season, in or at the start of winter, as prices will be lower (with the exception of hunters, which are best bought in spring or summer)
  • Aim to pay the selling price, but ask if they would take a particular figure (10%-20% under the asking price).
  • Remember, if you already have a saddle, you will still need a bridle that fits the horse. If the owner is selling the horse with tack included, you can always sell the equipment you do not need, and this way, you are not paying for equipment you're not going to use.

Alternatives to Buying

  • Look into adopting a horse for a reputable rescue organisation. There will still most likely be an adoption fee. You will not legally own the horse, and will not be able to breed or sell him. If you can no longer care for the horse the rescue organisation will take him back.
  • Loaning a horse is similar to adopting one, but the owner will be a private owner. Loans can be long or short term.
  • Sharing a horse involves caring and riding a horse for part of the week as well as making a financial contribution to the horses up-keep. The horse is usually owned by one person.
  • Work for rides is similar to sharing a horse, but no money passes hands.
  • Leasing a horse is another alternative to buying a horse.

Tips

  • Remember, a good horse will live a very long time. Make sure you think about your horse five years or so from when you buy. Its not about today and tomorrow, its about the many years you will spend time together.
  • Look at more than one horse!
  • Keeping a horse on your own land is cheaper but requires a bigger commitment as there are fewer people to help you. It makes going on holiday very difficult.
  • Do not fall in love with a horse's color. Good horses and bad ones come in all colors.
  • Don't be too picky about height. A small, round cob may be more suitable for long legs, than a tall narrow thoroughbred. If you're buying a horse for your child, don't buy the horse just because it's small. Make sure it is trained and suitable for your child. Would you rather have your child riding a green pony or a gentle, calm draft horse?
  • Ask if the horse has been measured or if the owner is guessing the height, especially if the horse/pony is close to pony height and you intend to compete or show.
  • Offer to let the owners view where you will be keeping the horse and ask your instructor/local hunt etc. to act as referees. Show the owner proof of any equine achievements, such as competition wins or qualifications.
  • Tell the owner if you don’t want the horse. It is polite and lets them know what’s happening.
  • If the owner has a trailer or horsebox, ask if they can transport the horse for you. If you officially take ownership of the horse at the end of the journey, you avoid laws about accepting money for transporting another’s horse.
  • Beauty is nothing on an unsuitable or unsound horse. They will also be more expensive.
  • When budgeting the price of a horse’s upkeep, work out how much a horse will cost for a month at the most expensive time in the year (usually winter), add 50% and x12.
  • Build a network of horse people. You’ll need them!
  • If you really want a horse just for a pet, not riding, consider getting a miniature horse. They are great companions, but you must be sure you can provide very good care and exercise.
  • Try bring a horse riding friend or your riding instructor with you so they can help you find the perfect horse.

Warnings

  • Do not buy an old, disease-prone, untrained (if you know you will not be able to train it) or dangerous horse just because he "is so cute and needs a good home". The old horse will not be around very long and, like the disease-prone horse, could cost you more than he's worth in vet bills. Older horses can be a great beginner horse for first time horses or little children. The untrained and dangerous horses will not earn their keep, and someone could get hurt.
  • Make sure you know the difference between a gelding and a stallion. Some crazy people will get rid of an unwanted stallion by trying to convince a less experienced horse person that he is a gelding. Don't be dumb enough to fall for that one!
  • If the owners don’t want you to view the horse with a professional, or allow you to get the horse vetted, walk away. Chances are, there's something very wrong with the horse.
  • Do not let a horse dealer talk you in to buying an unsuitable. If you hear him say something like "Well, when he's working, you can't even notice the crooked foot", walk away.
  • Not all dealers have yours, or the horse's, the best interests in mind. Go to dealers by recommendation, and walk away if you are unhappy with anything. Check that all the horses on the yard are healthy and happy.
  • Don't keep a horse alone. If you are keeping your new horse at your home, get him or her a buddy - perhaps an old retired horse, a goat, a mini horse, or another similar creature. Horses are very social and it is near-abusive to deny them socialization.
  • If you decide to loan or share a horse or if you take one on trial, make sure you have a contract stating: how the horse should be cared for, where he should be kept and what activities he should be used for, and what will happen if the horse becomes sick or injured, or dies while in your care.
  • Be sure to get a Bill of Sale or at least a receipt when you buy the horse. Don't be embarrassed to ask - chances are you don't know the sellers well!
  • When looking at horses to buy, don't visit unless you are truly interested and can afford the said horse. You may end up with a broken heart, and you will have wasted the seller and the horse's time!
  • When viewing, ask the owner to ride the horse before you try it. If the owner will not ride, regardless of the excuse, do not ride the horse.
  • Horse ownership is a huge responsibility. Make sure you have enough support, money, time and knowledge to look after a horse.
  • In the EU a horse must have a passport. The owner should hand this over to you. It is illegal if they don’t. Change the ownership on it as soon as possible.
  • Moving home is a stressful time for a horse. Be sympathetic and don't ride that day. But start training and riding them the next day. They adjust quickly and will forget everything if all they do is have R&R. Start what you will be doing as soon as possible (Trail, Cart, Show, etc.)
  • Buying a horse unseen (without going to view them) is not recommended. Even if you must go across the country or to another country, the cost is small compared to the price of buying and transporting the horse. If you do request photos and videos to see the horse walk & trot in a straight. Try to get someone you trust to view the horse.
  • Buying a horse without getting him checked by the vet is not recommended. You will probably have to have it done anyway to get the horse insured.
  • Buying from a sale or auction is not recommended for first-time owners without the services of a professional.

Things You'll Need

  • A plan
  • An extreme desire to own a horse
  • Parents or partner that are willing to let you have a horse
  • A place to keep your horse and companion animal(s)
  • Supplies to care for your horse, including a regular, reliable income
  • Horse feed and feeding equipment
  • Rugs
  • Tack if intending to ride
  • Driving equipment if intending to drive
  • Grooming kit
  • Tools to muck out if the horse is to be stabled
  • A trainer and/or knowledge of horse training and behavior
  • A kind loving heart/soft spot for horses

Related wikiHows


Sources and Citations

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Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Buy a Horse. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
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How to Train a Guard Dog

How to Train a Guard Dog


Guard dogs can be a good option for homeowners who wish to protect their property. In most cases, simply having a dog that barks at strangers and alerts you of potentially dangerous situations is enough when it comes to home security. However, some canines can be much more aggressive when it comes to protecting their territory and masters. In this situation, it is particularly important to properly train a guard dog.

Steps

  1. Teach the animal basic obedience skills, establishing yourself as a master. The dog shoud be able to carryout basic commands, such as sit, stay, stop, no, come and walk on a leash. Use positive reinforcement to encourage proper behavior while ignoring wrong behaviors.
  2. Socialize your dog. In order for a dog to determine when a threatening person or event appears, it must become acquainted with typical scenarios in everyday life.
    • Introduce the animal to all family members (including other pets) and friends that visit frequently.
    • Expose the canine to household noises (e.g., lawn mower, vacuum, traffic and storms).
    • Allow the pet to see you in different situations, such as carrying an umbrella, with a hat or with glasses).
  3. Encourage the pet to bark or notify you when strangers arrive.
    • Reward the dog for barking at strangers that arrive at the home. A treat or praise will reinforce the behavior.
    • Tell the dog "no" or "stop" if he barks at people that were included during the socialization period.
    • Ask friends or family, with whom the dog is not familiar, to make noises and knock on windows and doors at your home. Praise the dog's alertness and barking.
  4. Create boundaries for the canine. The dog should only protect your property. Creating boundaries will prevent the animal from attacking people outside of your land.
    • Walk the dog around your property boundaries daily. Command it to come back if it strays from the area.
    • Install an underground or invisible fencing system if the dog continues to leave your property. Once the boundaries have been established, the fence may be removed.
  5. Prevent the dog from taking food from other people. This is an important step in training because burglars often try to distract dogs with food.
    • Choose one person to be the main caregiver when it comes to feeding the animal.
    • Never allow friends and family outside of the home to give the dog food or treats.
  6. Seek the help of a professional canine training center if you wish to train a guard dog beyond barking. It is not wise to attempt to teach a dog to bite or attack without the help of a canine trainer.

Tips

  • Place a "beware of dog" sign on your property. This will deter burglars as well as help protect you if a lawsuit occurs from your dog biting or attacking a person.

Warnings

  • It is important to use extreme caution when a guard dog is around children. Never leave children unsupervised with the dog.

Sources and Citations


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How to Bathe a Cat

How to Bathe a Cat



Even though they mostly keep themselves clean, most cats need a bath every now and then. Everyone knows that cats hate getting wet. Cats generally keep themselves clean, and therefore should not be bathed any more often than is absolutely necessary. But they sometimes get especially dirty, get bombarded by fleas or ticks, or get into substances that are toxic or otherwise harmful. On such occasions, it is a good idea to bathe your cat. Here's how to keep your feline fresh and lovely as painlessly as possible.

Steps

  1. Decide whether your cat really needs a bath. There may be other ways to clean your cat, such as brushing the cat, combing or even rubbing it down with a cloth.
  2. Wear appropriate clothing. Not only is it important to wash your cat but it is important to be safe from any possible scratches, minor or major. A jumper or a long-sleeved shirt must be worn so that your cat has no bare skin to scratch. If you don't have one, you could wear long-sleeved gloves. It is also a good idea to wear clothing that isn't new.
  3. Get at least two people involved in washing your cat, especially if your cat is rather strong and can kick and wriggle its way out of your hands. One person should hold all four legs and hold the cat's jaw so it can't open its mouth to bite you, but be sure you don't hold it really tight so it can't breathe. Hold your cat firmly so it cannot wriggle out from your grip.
  4. Trim all nails before even attempting to wash a cat - this will reduce scratching.
  5. Fill the tub with no more than 4-5 inches deep with warm water (depends on size of the animal). Try to fill the tub before bringing your cat into the bathroom, since some cats can be unnerved by running water.
  6. Fill a bucket or two with extra water for rinsing the cat, but this is optional. This is so you don't need to run more water during the bath, which might frighten your cat.
  7. Put a rubber mat in the tub or use a towel so the cat has a comfortable footing.
  8. Have shampoo for your cat (you may need to go to a vet to get some), but if you don't have a lot of money you could use baby shampoo, flea shampoo or a mild shampoo and conditioner. Do not use normal shampoo, for it may be toxic to the cat. You may also want to have a small wash cloth ready. Have two towels at hand for drying your cat.
  9. Pre-treat any oily stains. Cats stained with something greasy may be very difficult to clean with mere shampoo and water alone. A cat smeared with engine or axle grease, motor oil, flypaper goo, or even crisco-based cake frosting can be helped by massaging a runny edible oil into the stained area before shampooing. Once the stain has been "melted" in this way, it will lift easily with shampoo.
    • Wear gloves, and use a low-melting point edible oil such as softened butter, bacon grease, or vegetable oil. Spoon or dribble it directly onto the affected area. Do not use any water. Massage the fur gently between your fingers until the stain appears to have blended with the oil. Blot away excess with a dry washcloth.
    • For severely stained cats, you may want to repeat the process, to dilute the foreign substance as much as possible.
    • Finish by massaging some shampoo directly into the oily patch on your cat.
  10. Comb the fur thoroughly before you put the cat in the water if it is long-haired or if it has burrs. Remove knots and tangles before wetting the fur, or the task will be next to impossible.
  11. Use a calm, quiet voice while washing your cat and keep a good grip on the neck or shoulders. Sometimes cats, obviously, will try to get out of the tub. If they prefer to have only two of their feet in the water, face them toward the back of the tub and let them stand on two feet.
  12. Soak the cat from the neck down, using a wash cloth. Use a little bit of shampoo and with the water, wash your cat's neck, body, legs, belly and tail. Be sure to not get shampoo in their eyes, nose, mouth, or ears.
  13. Rinse thoroughly with the water in the tub, then drain the tub and rinse two more times with water from the bucket or warm water from the tap. It is essential that you remove all the soap from the coat.
  14. Blot. Let the water drip from the cat while gently pressing as much water as you can from the fur before you wrap your cat in the towel. Rub gently with one towel. When the first towel gets too wet to be effective, switch to another dry towel. Don't stop until the cat is just damp. Try warming the towels in the dryer first, as many cats find this comforting.
  15. Finish drying:
    • Short-haired cats can finish drying themselves in the bathroom as long as they're away from drafts. They will appreciate a heat source (space heater or warm air vent) and a dry towel to sit on.
    • With long-haired cats, you will have to use a comb and more towels. Long hairs mat more easily when wet, so you may wish to comb the coat until it is completely dry.
  16. Reward your cat. Give him/her their favorite canned food or catnip or treats, and he/she will come to realize that there is a good side to being bathed.

Video


Alternate Bucket Technique

  1. Use a couple buckets for separate bathing stations, even with cats that have never been bathed before. Have the buckets filled with warm water. Dip the cat in and using a wash cloth make sure the cat is entirely wet, then soap the cat down. Next, put the cat in another bucket to rinse until soap is gone. Make sure to use warm enough water and to dry thoroughly as described above. This technique can be done outside if the weather is warm and sunny, and if care is taken to prevent the cat from escaping in mid-bath.

Alternate Shower Technique

  1. Recognize that it may be helpful to wash your cat in a shower stall (if you have one with a door, not curtain). The cat is essentially trapped in the shower without you having to hold on. Make sure the cat has good traction (a small towel in the bathtub will help if you have no rubber mat) or you will have a panic-stricken cat that is likely to seek safety in height by trying to climb you like a tree.
  2. Buy a hose adapter for your bathroom sink (try a water-bed store) and a hose long enough to reach over the shower door and back down to the shower floor. Or, get a hand held spray shower and a Y-adapter to connect it to your regular shower head.
  3. Hose your cat down, lather up, hose down to rinse, then proceed with drying. Use a gentle stream, to saturate the fur thoroughly without terrifying the cat. Please keep the water pressure fairly low, so the cat is comfortable. Some cats actually seem to enjoy the massage settings on hand held showers, especially on the back of the neck and down the ridge of the back.

Alternate Dry Shampoo Option

  1. Dust the cat with cornstarch. Gently pet the cat to thoroughly rub the cornstarch into its fur. Let the cat clean itself with its normal grooming routine. This technique is far less traumatic than using water, and works especially well if the cat is greasy, however, use it for non-toxic dirt only. Do not use this technique if the cat has gotten into something poisonous.

How to Gently Wash a Cat

  1. Instead of traumatizing your cat by throwing her into a bath and scaring your cat out of her wits, there are other gentler techniques of bathing your cat.
  2. One technique to bath your cat is to take a shallow tub, a few inches high and fill it with water.
How to make your cat want to bathe.
  1. Next, play with your cat inside his or her bath with a string, or with some other toy that your cat likes. If you play with your cat in the bath, then your cat will enjoy bathing and want to get in there again to play with you!
  2. Make it the place where you play with your cat with a certain item (like a mouse on a string or some kind of " cat bathing" toy.) you only play with her in bath. This causes your cat to look forward to the event of cat bathing, instead of fearing it!
  3. Another good cat bathing motivator is to give your cat a couple of yummy cat treats when it baths.
  4. Try adding some catnip to its bath water, though this may make your cat extremely playful and it may then want to attack you. See how your cat reacts to catnip before covering him/her in it.

Tips

  • Cats' natural body temperatures are several degrees above a human's, so what feels luke-warm to you can feel uncomfortably cold to a cat. It can be less uncomfortable for a cat if you bathe it in fairly hot water and steam up the bathroom so warm air is circulating. (Imagine if someone suddenly tossed you into a tepid swimming pool. Or how it feels when you finish with your shower and open the door, letting the regular air in. Feels freezing against your wet skin, right?)
  • Your cat has its own personality. While these are all good suggestions, be aware of your cat's reactions, and be prepared to adjust tactics accordingly.
  • Try giving your cat a treat after the bath; it might improve the tension for future baths!
  • The younger you start bathing your cat, the easier it will be as the cat will become familiar with it as part of its routine.
  • Brave souls may find it easier to put on old clothing and sit in the tub holding the cat (however the cat typically likes to be held) and letting someone else actually bathe the cat.
  • When you have more time, run a very shallow warm bath (only a cm deep or so to begin with). Pet the cat, and give it a treat if it is food oriented. Continue at this depth until the cat does not panic and try to escape. Repeat daily, until the cat treats it as part of a routine, gradually increasing the depth until it is accepting standing in 4-5 ins of water. As a final step, have someone else reassure the cat whilst you use your hand to gently make waves in the water. This can take a week, or months depending on the cat, but it is worth the perseverance to know that you can safely bathe your pet when necessary.
  • If all else fails, take your cat to a reputable, professional pet groomer (i.e. PetSmart, PetCo) or a vet for their washing. They will be able to use techniques to keep the cat calm. It you have the petclub membership you could get a coupon for coming often.
  • Some cats will do better in an empty tub (or sink) with water being poured on rather then being put into a tub with water already in it.
  • If you are giving your cat a flea bath, wet the area around its neck first. Fleas will try to escape to the dry areas of the cat, which can mean a mass exodus of fleas to the head and face while you are bathing. A wet neck will keep them off the head, and in contact with the water and flea shampoo.
  • You may find it helpful, if you have a cat that is very attached to you and is not scratching but is just scared, to simply take a shower with your animal. Wear a heavy sweatshirt and allow the cat to sit on your chest. The cat will most likely bury its face in your neck and feel calmed. Wash and rinse your cat as normal.
  • Another idea is to place your cat and water in a small plastic dishwashing tub (about 12x18 in.) and stand over it. This way, you can more easily control the cat, and it is harder for it to escape. I've found that never letting my cat escape on its own, and only letting it go when I am done has helped it be calm and cooperative during baths. It also helps to make bath time quick and gentle.
  • An oven rack can be used to give the cat something to hold onto. This reduces the chance of you being scratched and makes the cat feel better.
  • If you have a litter box in the same room as you are bathing the cat, remove it! Sometimes after the cat is put in the bath and it happens to escape it may go to the litter box and soon your floor will be covered in litter!
  • The YouTube video "How to Wash a Cat", though originally intended for comedy, has a lot of good tips in it. (Note: It says to drop the cat when putting it in the tub. Don't do this as your cat will only become angry.)
  • You can also give the cat a bubble bath if you would like.

Warnings

  • Make sure the outside air temperature is over 70 Fahrenheit degrees (20 °C) and at low humidity. Bathed cats can, and will, contract pneumonia, as they are easily chilled. Keep bathed cat indoors in warm family room for 12 hours if weather won't cooperate.
  • Watch out for cat claws if you decide to bathe your cat. Wearing a thick, long-sleeved sweater is one way to avoid getting scratched badly while bathing your cat. Be patient and gentle; it is natural for cats to fight the water because it simply doesn't feel right.
  • If you don't know how to properly hold a cat by the scruff, don't do it. Your cat may choke.
  • Don't put shampoo on their head. It could get in their eyes.
  • Be aware that you shouldn't bathe your cat frequently, this technique is just in case your pet is really dirty.
  • Although some cats may accept the bath without great complaints, they may get nervous or angry or too scared when you try to dry them. Be careful during this last phase-- shut the door of the bathroom or the cat will run away all wet, keep it calm or it will urinate, creating a big mess.
  • If you find your cat objects too much to a bath by hissing at you and trying to escape, then forget the bath. Use a wet washcloth instead. It removes the outer dirt, and cleans well. At your local pet store, you can find treated cloths that need no water to be used to groom the cat. They even have a pleasant scent.
  • Cats absorb chemicals through their skin, so they must be very well rinsed. Rinse until you see only clear water running off the cat.
  • Make sure to use specially formulated shampoo for cats. Your hair is different from that of your cat, and your shampoo will only irritate your cat's skin.
  • Do not use flea shampoos for dogs on your cat. They may contain ingredients that are harmful to your cat. Be sure to read the label on all products, and be aware that some flea products formulated for cats may still cause a reaction.
  • While you may be tempted to use a solvent to dissolve industrial stains like engine grease or flypaper, don't do it. Harsh solvents are bad for your cat, are difficult to apply effectively to a struggling cat, and evaporate too quickly to do a thorough job on the stain. The vegetable oil technique above works very well for sticky and grease-based stains, and it has the advantage of being totally safe.
  • Do not bathe your pet any more than once every two weeks. Excessive bathing may remove protective oils from its fur, making it appear dull, and reducing the fur's natural efficiency against the elements.
  • Never use sinks that are freestanding because your cat might jump and slip from being wet and hurt itself.
  • Never get soap in your cat's eyes. As a safeguard, put 1 to 2 drops of eye lubricant into each eye just before bathing. You can use any human labeled eye drops that are indicated as a non-medicated ocular lubricant, often used for dry eye syndrome. They are available as over the counter (OTC) products at most drug stores. Examples include Tears Natural II drops or as a gel (Genteal).
  • Similarly, do not get soapy water into your cat's ears. To minimize the risk of creating an ear infection (otitis external), put a pledget of cotton in each ear. Don't forget to take them out at the end of the bath. The cotton may also reduce the noise and make your job easier. At the very least your cat may be pre-occupied with the cotton in its ears and remain distracted. If your cats ears are particularly filthy, gently wipe the insides with a warm, damp wash cloth with no soap. Cat's ears contain protective waxes and oils that should not be removed.
  • Listen for sounds of unhappiness. These sounds include hissing, growling, breathing hard, sneezing, crying, and meowing.
  • Avoid using a blow dryer on a short-haired cat or kitten as it may burn them and/or cause more trauma. Short-haired cats can bathe themselves dry.
  • Never force your cat's head under the water! To wash their head and face, use a wash cloth.
  • Cold water will shock your cat. Just as said before, "Not luke-warm, almost hot."
  • Please do not use shampoo/conditioner for humans on cats. It can cause all sorts of allergic reactions & skin irritation.If you don't have cat shampoo just use warm water.
  • Be patient and NEVER get angry if your cat scratches you.

Things You'll Need

  • Shampoo
  • Conditioner (optional)
  • 2 towels
  • Brush/comb
  • Your cat
  • A bath
  • Warm water (Not luke warm, but almost hot!)
  • A jumper, a long sleeved shirt or long sleeved gloves
  • 2 or more people
  • Treats (optional)
  • A toy (optional)

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How to Choose the Best Dog Breeder

How to Choose the Best Dog Breeder



Choosing a puppy can be difficult but finding the right breeder will make all the difference. Remember puppies (and dogs) are a lot of work and require time, effort, and money to care for properly.

Steps

  1. Chose Your Breed. This is very important. Think about yourself and your family- Why do you want a dog (Companionship around the house? An exercise buddy? To train for therapy? To show?) Think about the area you live in. A hot and humid location can be harder on an arctic breed (Husky, Malamute, etc), while Chihuahuas in cold locations will need extra care to keep warm. Think about how much time and money you are willing to spend on: Training- smart breeds need to be challenged, slower breeds need extra time and patience to teach). Exercise- many dogs from the Sport, Herding, and Terrier groups need to spend over an hour outside running daily while some Hounds and Toy breeds will be happy with daily easy walks and more gentle play. Grooming- long haired vs short hair, single layer coat vs heavy undercoat.
  2. Start Your Search. Look for an individual that works with the breed of dog you're looking for. Find your local/state kennel club online- they may have a "breed representative" in your area who can help you find a good, responsible breeder. Avoid newspaper ads, as these are not typically used by responsible breeders. Remember that more 'exotic' breeds (i.e. Chinese Crested dogs, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, etc) may not be common in your area and you may have to travel to find a good breeder. Do not settle on a local breeder just because they are close- a long trip to a good breeder is worth every penny you spend on gas.
  3. Talk to the Breeder. They should be well educated about the breed they work with, and honest about the pros and cons of the breed. They should be registered by the AKC (in the USA), or other nationally recognized, organized purebred dog registry.
  4. Look at the Kennel Area. It should be clean, not over crowed, and the dogs should be well fed.
  5. Meet the Parents. The mother dog (the Dam), might be suspicious and watchful, but should not show aggression if approached when with her puppies. You may ask to see her and the father (the Sire) alone to determine their temperament away from the puppies. If their attitudes are not a good fit for you and your family, find another breeder.
  6. Check and Interact with the Puppy. They should not be easily frightened by your approach, nor show any signs of aggression or resentment when handled (squirming and gentle mouthing is normal and fine, flailing and hard biting can indicate behavioral problems in the future). Puppies should look clean and well fed.

Tips

  • Be patient. Don't fall for the first fuzzy face you see. Remember- the puppy you select will quickly grow into an adult dog. This dog can live as long as 15 to 20 years. You are making a long-term investment for the lifetime of the dog.
  • Ask Questions- what genetic problems are known in this breed? Have the parents (and the parents' parents) been tested for any of these? Have there been health problems with any other litters? If old enough, have any of the puppies been temperament tested? What kind of socialization have they had so far? Will the breeder take the puppy back if at any time you are no longer able to care for it (this is a sign of a very good breeder)? What are the conditions of the contract for purchasing this puppy?

Warnings

  • If the breeder will not allow you to see the parent dogs (at least the mother, as they may not own the father, and he may not be present), do not buy from them.
  • If the mother dog is aggressive (growling, snapping, snarling) or terrified (freezes in place) when you approach her or her puppies, do not buy- some behavior traits are inherited.
  • Avoid breeders with multiple litters of puppies and those with multiple breeds of dogs being bred- these are the first signs of a "back yard breeder" or puppy mills in the making.
  • Do not be pulled in by the words "designer" or "hybrid". You cannot get a "designer breed" from a responsible breeder. A responsible breeder carefully selects individuals that represent their breed well, with good health and stable, pleasant temperaments to breed and carry on those traits. They do not try to charge extra money for throwing a couple of dogs together and seeing what kind of cute name that pairing would make (i.e. Shorkie, Shih-poo, Labradoodle, Cocka-poo, Bugg, et al). Don't be fooled.

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How to Set Boundaries in Dog Training

How to Set Boundaries in Dog Training



Dogs are pack animals, which is why they live so well with us in our family units, which to them equates to the ‘pack’. The most successful packs in the wild are those where there are clear rules, boundaries and constraints; every dog knows its job and what it can and can’t do. Their survival depends upon clear rules and consistency. This in itself offers the dog a sense of security.
To give a dog the best possible start within our ‘pack’, we too need to clearly outline and instigate rules and boundaries. Without these, our dog begins to display unwanted behaviours such as play-biting, jumping up uninvited, stealing and behaving like a real ‘wild child’! Often we try to fix the actual problem but the underlying causes remain the same and the behaviour never really disappears.
Here is a list of suggested rules, which should remain in place until the dog is at least 2 years old:

Steps

  1. Restrict the dog’s area when he or she is left alone.
  2. Do not allow the dog on furniture.
  3. Ensure the dog moves out of our way when required. Don't step over the dog or around it.
  4. Don't let anyone play rough or ‘fighting’ games with the dog.
  5. Do not allow the dog to play fight/play bite with other dogs living in the household.
  6. Don't allow ‘tug of war’ games with the dog.
  7. Don't allow jumping up uninvited.
  8. Don't feed the dog from the table or plates.
  9. Make the dog work for all food and tidbits. For example, ask the dog to Sit for his dinner or treat.
  10. Avoid constantly responding to the dog’s demands for attention. They do not require constant entertainment.
  11. When returning to the dog, ignore him or her for at least 5 minutes before greeting. This displays leadership skills and reduces over-excitement at your return.

Tips

  • Without rules and boundaries, your success in training your dog will be limited and you will not experience the true joy of a well-adjusted, well-mannered dog, which you can be justifiably proud

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Sunday, 21 November 2010

How to Find a 4H Progam to Enter a German Shepherd In

How to Find a 4H Progam to Enter a German Shepherd In


4H exhibiting is a great experience for both you and your dog. Here are ways to get you started:

Steps

  1. Contact or visit your local extension office or county fair office and ask them for a list of that county's 4H clubs. Typically they will be organized into subject order, and you typically want to join a club that specializes in dogs or pets. If you can't find any, move on the next county. If you still fail to find any, you can probably join any club. Though they will not be as knowledgeable in such areas, you will still be able to show.
    • When you find your potential club, there should be a contact number included. Ask for meeting times, more contact information, the advisors, and any additional information that is important. If there isn't a contact number included, talk to the extension office or fair office and ask them for one.
  2. You will probably need a project title and book if showing through traditional 4H, which can be purchased through the 4H handbook and family guide (your advisors should provide them).
  3. Usually your club will provide you with information regarding entering and judging through your project. Animal and livestock projects are very different from others, so be sure to receive very specific information.

Tips

  • Typically 4H exhibition is for children ages 9-19. If you are over this age limit, consider becoming an advisor for clubs instead.
  • 4H usually starts in late winter/early spring and ends late summer. If 4H is not in season at your current time, you may have to wait until it comes around.

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How to Train a Dog to Do Amazing Tricks

How to Train a Dog to Do Amazing Tricks



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Training a dog is hard work, but only if you do it wrong. So you should read this article very carefully so that your training can go very smooth and easy.

Steps

    • Always have a treat in your hand while you train your dog.
    • First start off with an easy trick, like sit. Put your hand on your chest in a fist. Then say the word "sit" and give them a tap on their lower back.
    • If they do not sit repeat that step. This should work with every trick, but with different hand motions and words.
    • For lie down you say "down" and hold the treat in front of them and slowly put your hand on the ground.
    • If they lick the treat it is ok as long as they do not eat it.
    • For stay lock your elbow in front of you with your hand strait up and back away 2 or 3 steps.Work on it many times before you increase the distance.
    • For your other tricks make up some motions, but once they know it do not change the signal!!

Tips

  • Whatever you do NEVER dont give them a treat they will stop obeying you if they do not get their treat!
  • Always have pacience when training your dog.


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  • If your dog has hip injuries do not make them sit.
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How to Create a Pet Rock

How to Create a Pet Rock


What's a pet that'll stay with you even when die. Heck, it DOESN'T even die! Its the one & only Pet Rock. If your mom refuses a puppy or hamster, resort to this pet!

Steps

  1. Go in a garden near your house.
  2. Search for a medium sized rock or something that'll fit in your hand.
  3. Go in your house, get a table and spread out a large newspaper.
  4. Bring out all your favorite decor (paints, glitter, etc).
  5. Make sure that your rock is dry and clean, if you washed it before you start painting,.
  6. Break out the paint! Go crazy & draw crazy eyes with streaks & squiggles. Draw a plain, quiet rock with glasses & a cute, small, smile.
  7. Wait about 10 minutes for the paint to dry.
  8. Show it off to; your mom, BF ,BFF, brother, sister, enemy, dog ,frog, lamp, bed, etc....

Tips

  • If you want to make your rock more noticeable, add a bow or a small velvet hat!
  • Make them for your friends' birthday, a congrats present, or perhaps a sweet surprise for your boy/girl friend.
  • Wrap in a package & send it to a friend who moved away!
  • If you're having a bad day, take it on your rock. Draw on it, scratch it, throw it on the floor. (Just don't screw up the wall!)

Things You'll Need

  • Rock (of course!)
  • Paint
  • Table & newspaper
  • Strings, bows, yarns
  • Glue
  • Googly eyes or clay
  • Markers & felt

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How to Buy Pet Insurance

How to Buy Pet Insurance



Many families treat their pets as pampered children and strive to provide the same benefits for the animals as they would an actual human. This includes getting pet insurance to ensure the furry loved one stays in good health. Pets have medical issues just like people do, and treatment can be expensive, especially if a condition is chronic or requires surgery or expensive medication. Pet insurance can help keep the costs manageable.

Steps

  1. Start looking for pet insurance companies.
    • Ask veterinarians for recommendations of pet insurance carriers.
    • Talk with pet owners for recommendations or referrals to the companies they use.
    • Check with local humane societies for recommendations.
  2. Research pet insurance companies. You'll want to ask specific questions to help you narrow your choices.
    • Start by asking about basic pet wellness expenses. Find out what the company covers. Does it cover the basics, such as annual vaccinations and examines?
    • You'll want to ask what the deductible options are and the variance in the premium price for the different options. Other questions can help you learn more about the insurance company. What is the co-pay? How do you file claims? How long does it take the company to process claims?
    • Ask whether the company will cover specific types of tests. Does the pet insurance carrier cover emergency medical expenses? What about blood tests, urine tests, MRIs or X-rays?
    • Determine whether the insurance will cover surgeries and animal hospital stays, as well as expenses for follow-up care.
    • Some companies may cover cosmetic treatments that help a pet stay healthy, such as nail trimming and dental procedures.
    • See whether the pet insurance carrier bases premiums on pet age or restricts certain breeds.
    • Make a point to ask about medical prescriptions and prescription pet foods.
    • Touch on delicate issues, as well, such as coverage for end-of-life pet care and cremation services.
  3. Request a written quote from each pet insurance carrier under consideration. The quote should include information about deductibles, co-pays and maximum coverage amounts.
    • Look for a level rating assigned to pets. A puppy may be a level 1, while a 7-year-old dog receives a level 3. There'll be a price difference in the premiums because of the age difference in the pets.
  4. Pay for the pet insurance annual premiums in one lump sum or installments, as available through the pet insurance company.
    • Check the website of the pet insurance carrier to set up an account to pay the annual, quarterly or monthly premiums online.
    • Select payment methods for pet insurance by personal convenience, such as credit card, check or automatic deduction.
  5. Be sure to get an insurance card, claim forms and info on how to file a claim with the pet insurance carrier.
  6. Review the pet insurance policy yearly before you renew it. Medical issues and age level of pets may increase the premium.

Tips

  • Ask for discounts when covering more than one pet with insurance.
  • Check for discounts on pet insurance when adopting from local humane societies.

Warnings

  • Be aware most pet insurance carriers will not cover pets with serious pre-existing medical conditions.

Sources and Citations



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