How to Keep Spiders As Pets

Many people view spiders as pests, or even dangerous insects. Although some spiders may be dangerous, many are harmless and are very suitable as pets.

Steps

1. Find a spider. There are many different types of spiders one can choose. A couple of common spiders groups you can choose from are jumping spiders, orb weavers, and wolf spiders. The spider groups most suitable for captivity are spiders that can hunt on foot. These include jumping spiders and wolf spiders.
   
2. Once you have procured a possible candidate find a clear container with holes in it so that the spider can breathe. Fewer holes, (even just one) seem to work best. Make sure that the container is large enough for the spider to move around and jump around comfortably. A small jar lid or cup with wet paper towel or cotton will help to maintain humidity.
   
3. Make sure you can take the lid off or drop insects in the container without having to take apart the whole container. Preferably, make a small hinge that can open and close without taking the lid off.
   
4. Put a small covering of sand or soil in the bottom and a leaf, rock or some other object that the spider can hide under and make its lair.
   
5. Place the spider in the container.
   
6. Feed the spider. On average, the spider needs about one or two insects a day to be as happy as possible, unless it is a larger insect. Make sure that the insect that you give it is not larger than the spider itself. An insect about half the size of the spider is an ideal candidate. Some examples of good prey are flies, smaller spiders, small caterpillars, and about any other small insect. Small meal worms work well. If you use fruit flies be sure to supplement them with other insects. Most spiders can live for up to a month without food if they have water.
   
7. Spiders get all the fluid they need from their prey, so you do not need to put water in the cage, but try to keep the humidity controlled.
   
8. Enjoy. If a spider is well taken care of, they can live up to a year. Some tarantulas can even live for 25 years.
   

Tips

• Remember to clean out the cage about every week, so ants won't get in the cage.
  
• You can keep the cage inside if you like, as long as you don't mind the spider getting loose in your room.
  
• Jumping spiders are fun spiders to keep as pets since they are very active and are often colorful.
  
• You shouldn't handle the spider too much, as it could possibly get injured.
  

Warnings

• Never handle a spider unless you are sure it is not poisonous. If you have the slightest bit of doubt look it up in a field guide or on the internet.
  

Things You'll Need

• A container
  
• A spider
  
• Plenty of bugs and insects for prey
  
• Some time on your hands
  

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How to Care for Green Anole Lizards

How to properly shelter, feed, and care for your green anole lizard. The advice here does not necessarily apply to all species of anole (just most), and certainly not all species.

Steps

1. Keep in mind that your anoles' cage should be visually pleasing.
   
2. If you want to get more than one anole make sure you go with two females (two males will fight and a male and a female might have babies). When younger, it is sometimes difficult to determine the sex of your lizards. Males always have a flap underneath their throat that inflates into a red frill for mating/territory display on occasion. When older, males are typically larger and have longer snouts than females. Males also will have two large "scales" on their stomach at the base of their tail.Males have two bumps on the bottom base of the tail and females have only one or none (Remember that anoles are solitary creatures unless it's breeding season, so having a container with more than one is highly stressful for them, and not natural at all.)
   
3. Although many sources will say that they are "sociable animals" this is misguided information, and anoles should indeed be kept separate from one another in different tanks or containers. This type of setup is more comfortable for the individuals inhabiting the tanks, and not as unnatural, therefore, it is less stressful and more healthy for the anoles.
   
4. Fill the tank evenly one or more inches with sterilized reptile bark big enough that it cannot fit in the anole's mouth.
   
5. A florescent 40 watt bulb is required during the day that leaves a temperature of 75-80 degrees F. The Florescent light must be turned off at night and be replaced with a black light.
   
6. Mist your anoles and the plants in their tank for 10 seconds 2-3 times a day. The anoles will regularly drink water from the plant leaves.
   
7. Feed your anoles every 2-3 days. You should dust the crickets with a vitamin supplement powder at each feeding as the crickets will walk around in the tank and lose some powder if. If your animal doesn't get enough calcium and vitiams the anole could end up with MBD (metabolic bone disease) and die. If you keep crickets around in bulk you should "gut-load" them by feeding them a vitamin rich cricket food prior to feeding them to your lizards. This way, all of the nutritious food your crickets just ate will then, in turn, be passed on to your anole. Your anole is what he eats! So if your crickets are starved, your anole soon will be too. Also, buy the smallest cricket offered, and if there is only "one size" at a pet store, go to a different one.
   
8. Green anoles like to have their food in seperate quarters than their homes unless it's feeding time. This way the 'leftovers' won't munch on your lizard while he's asleep. If you place your crickets in a low feeding dish, your anole will be thankful that they aren't ganging up on him in the night! But if they're small enough, they won't bother your anole.
   

Tips

• Be prepared for your anoles to live for 3-8 years after you get them.* *Although these lizards are cheap to buy, keep in mind that they are very hard to care for, will need special heating/lighting setups, weekly cricket purchases (if you don't breed your own), vitamin supplements, special watering techniques, and their tanks or containers will need weekly maintinence and cleaning.
  
• To make tank cleaning easier, try putting a sheet of plastic down before you put in the substrate.
  
• Make sure the crickets you put in the container aren't hiding under food bowls and such.
  
• Occasional fast prey like small cockroaches or flies will give your lizards some much needed exercise. Anoles may also eat waxworms, fruit flies, small worms, canned crickets, or earthworms. (Canned foods will not be eaten since they are lifeless and won't compete with your anoles.)
  
• Kill any red spider mites that you see in the tank. They are to anoles what ticks are to us.
  
• Some anoles will get infections on their snout along the mouth. This can be cleaned by gingerly and delicately wiping the snout with a cotton swab barely wetted in either Hydrogen Peroxide or Neosporin. Do not do this more than once a day and not for more than a few days. Don't force them the treatment though; if they try to dodge you, let them, it is likely that the stress of this procedure will harm them more. Instead, try keeping the container cleaner, and maybe drier if it happens to be too moist.
  
• Make sure to get rid of any mold growth the second you see it! Don't hesitate by 'waiting to see what happens' because your anole will suffer and probably die.
  
• Anoles only develop fat reserves in their tail. Ergo an anole with a fat tail is a well-fed anole.
  
• If you always drop the anoles food in the same location, they will involuntarily learn this and expect their food to be dropped there.
  
• Small hatchlings sometimes like to lick at citrus fruit to get trace vitamins. Additionally, old citrus fruit will attract fruit flies which are one of their two primary food sources in the wild, the other being termites. Make sure to remove fresh foods after a couple of hours to prevent rotting and mold growth.
  
• Small crickets go down easier than large ones. Be careful of too many excess crickets so they do not bite at the anoles. Spiders such as daddy long legs help the anoles exercise, but offer limited nutrition.
  
• Remember to spritz the walls and decor of his container with water daily! This is the only way most of these small lizards will drink.
  
• For easy dusting, add a small amount of vitamin powder to the plastic bag of insects and shake the bag. They will be coated. Just think "Shake-n'-Bake!"
  
• Males will sometimes chase females around the tank. Don't worry, this is normal mating behavior, the smaller females can easily outrun the males if they need to. I had a small female that would always outrun the male, but would also at other times approach him for coitus. Their behavior may be peculiar to us, but it is theirs, and it is rare for the males to hurt the females.
  
• Like people, anoles can fall asleep in the sun for longer than they intended to. While they like long days you should still put a timer on their grow light so that it is ON for 12 hours a day, so they can get 12 hours of darkness at BUT there needs to be a black light on during the night! they will freeze if no warmth is added.
  
• Males will stress out females, so keep males seperated from all anoles unless breeding. Females do fine together, and may "snuggle" on a leaf occasionally
  
• When buying an anole, make sure to check for parasites, sluggishness, and their body weight by looking for obvious ribs showing. They will also have sunken-in cheek areas, and will look much like a skeleton with skin. Make sure your anole is in a tank of his own when you buy it, or check the others for signs of stress, parasites, loose droppings, missing tails, and coloration. A green anole is less stressed out, and therefore a healthier specimen. (Slow anoles may just be cold, or it may be too hot. It all depends on their surroundings.)
  
• Make sure to use common sense when choosing a new pet. Don't pick the smallest, skinniest anole because you 'feel bad for it.' Chances are you'll feel worse for him when you have to bury him in a shoe box in your garden.
  
• You should avoid using so-called "Hot Rocks" which plug into an outlet and heat up. The lizards like them so much, that they may be cooked from the inside out from overexposure. Keep in mind that the majority of their heat and light comes from the sun shining down on them, so a heat source that radiates upwards is highly unnatural. *You can mix green anoles with house geckos,fire-belly newts, fire belly toads & green tree frogs
  

Warnings

• As with any reptiles, you should wash your hands after handling any bedding or tank decorations to prevent the spread of salmonella. Keep in mind that these lizards are very skiddish, and therefore are more of an exhibition-type. In plain terms, these lizards are to be looked at! Not handled. Handling is very stressful for such a small animal. Imagine being picked up by a giant that you think is going to eat you!
  
• Do not put more than one male in a tank. They will fight constantly over the limited territory, and don't forget that they are naturally loners, so even if you have two it's still "overcrowding" in their eyes.
  
• Do not use heating rocks or caves. They often overheat, causing burns or death.
  
• If you use a "sun lamp" or InfraRed bulbs, make sure it is not sitting directly on the screen topper. Many people have lost their anoles because of them literally 'cooking' in the tank.
  
• If you do not use a UVB light, the animal must have the proper vitamins and calcium, since it will not be made naturally with the UVB light. If you use a UVB light, then the animal can create some of these naturally. Make sure it's rated for the tank size and the animal. (Replace these special bulbs every few months even if they are still producing light. After a while they will stop making UVA and UVB.)
  
• Do not rely solely on a water dish for your lizards' hydration; anoles will usually not drink from pools of still water. Furthermore, small hatchlings often drown in any amount of standing water. Frequent misting the sides of the tank or any decorations will assure that your anole gets enough to drink.
  
• Only feed your anoles live food; adult anoles will not attempt to eat inanimate objects, and they will starve.
  
• Flies alone cannot provide the lizards with fat. They will slowly starve to death much as humans did on all-rabbit diets in frontier times.
  
• Remember to 'gut-load' crickets before feeding them to your anole. This assures that the crickets you feed him are chock-full of good foods and vitamins. The food inside your crickets will help your lizards too. Remember that you are what you eat!
  
• If you are unfamiliar with an insect species but want to feed it to your lizards, research it further until you know it is neither poisonous or has stingers. Wasps, hornets, bees, wolf-spiders, and scorpions are all big NO-NOs! Even if your anole doesn't try to eat it, they can still get hurt by it in an enclosed cage.
  
• Always use a tank cover. Other pets (like cats) like to 'play' with anoles. (Usually this means death for an escaped anole.)
  
• Do not use a heating pad. They are potential fire-hazards if not used with the proper tank set-ups.
  
• Remember that the lizard's tank should mimic it's actual habitat like a rainforest
  
• I am adding to your article that it is not recommended to mix anoles and fire belly newts together. Fire belly newts are amphibians, and require a totally different housing set up. Fire belly newts not only are aquatic or semi-aquatic, but they also would die at a temperature above 70 degrees F., and the anole would likely not make it much below 70 degrees F. Their climates, lighting, and heating requirements are different, and species mixing in general is not recommended, as one species may eat the other. The newt is much more docile and would likely be victimized in this case. The temperments of the other combinations of animals mentioned above would have to be considered as well as their individual habitat requirements. The third thing that can go wrong is in the introduction of foreign pathogens by putting two species together in a small space to co-habitate that don't normally exist together in the wild. One may be wild caught (taken from the wild) and the other may be too, but from a different part of the world with different pathogens it has an immunity to, or it may be captive bred (from breeders and born in captivity) where it would not be subjected to all the illnesses and stress that wild caught animals are. Putting them together could be a disaster waiting to happen. If you would like more information, just go to the "Species Mixing Disasters" section at www.caudata.org or ask around on the forum there.
  

Things You'll Need

• At least a 10-gallon, preferably a 20-gallon aquarium with a full metal-mesh lid (for strength and ventilation).
  
• At least one bag of substrate.
  
• A water spray bottle that has never been used for anything else.
  
• Decorations that allow hiding and basking spots.
  
• A heat lamp with an appropriate wattage bulb (Specifically rated with the proper amounts of UVA/UVB ect.).
  
• At least one potted plant or fake plant strong enough for the anole to rest on.
  
• At least one branch (preferably more) the length of the aquarium, for climbing.
  
• A small shelter for privacy, such as half of a coconut shell with an opening.
  
• A thermometer on each end of the enclosure.
  
• A hydrometer.
  
• Vitamin powder for sprinkling on crickets.
  
• Cricket chow.
  
• A place to temporarily house crickets, so you can gut-load them prior to feeding your anole. (Remember to give them a wedge of fruit to provide moisture without them drowning in a bowl. They will also eat fruits and vegetables if you don't have cricket food. Adding cardboard tubes not only makes their last days happier, it makes it easier to remove them from their container without touching them. Simply remove the tube and shake it into your lizard's house!)
  
• Tasty juices for feeding time
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Raise Your Own Crickets
  
• How to Feed Crickets to Reptiles
  
• How to Create Aquariums So Lizards and Fish Can Coexist
  
• How to Determine the Sex of a Green Anole
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Care for Green Anole Lizards. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Connect With an Animal

There are many ways to connect with an animal. And there are good ways and there are bad ways. In order to connect well with an animal, consider the following ideas.

Steps

1. Remain calm around new pets or animals. Animals sense fear, anger, annoyance, uncertainty, etc. While you might think you have these emotions under control, unless you really do, you will release bad feeling through your body movements and presentation. If you're upset, fearful, etc., wait until the feelings pass before approaching and interacting with a new animal in your household or farm.
   
2. Keep new animals away from existing animals until they are properly settled. It's hard enough coming to a new home without having bossy or inquisitive animals pestering the new animal. Give the new animal some space and time before allowing it to gradually interact with the existing animals. You should always be around for the initial encounters unless something goes wrong and you need to intervene quickly.
   
3. Involve your pets in your life. Animals enjoy being a part of your activities; get used to their presence and don't yell at them, or kick out at them, etc. If they're in the way, simply pick them up gently and put them in the yard or another room until you're finished with your activity. Spend a lot of time playing with your pets, loving them, and generally talking to them.
   
4. Don't be speciesist. Build trust and respect with your pets and animals; we're all animals and other species communicate with us and vice versa through love, mutual respect and provision of attention. Another key element is to cease the idea of "ownership" of animals. We have animals in our lives and we are responsible for them but we don't "own" them any more than they "own" us or we "own" our kids!
   
5. Read and learn. When you have animals in your life, it pays to know as much about them as possible. Never stop learning. Read books and watch documentaries about animals to learn what you can about them and their way of understanding the world. Work your knowledge into your handling methods so that you become a better communicator and connect closely with the animals in your life.
   

Tips

• Dogs you are familiar with like to be looked at in the eye.
  
• Young dogs like to play and chew so make sure you have some chew toys.
  
• Don't ever harm an animal.
  

Warnings

• Stray dogs or any other dog that isn't yours, don't like to be looked in the eye because they consider this a challenge and that may provoke them to bite you.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Help Your Pet Lose Weight
  
• How to Reduce Animal Dust and Dander in Your Home
  
• How to Communicate with Animals
  
• How to Find out What Your Favorite Animal Is
  

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How to Help a Pet Get Used to a New Baby

When a newborn comes home, it may be a little difficult to adjust having them under the roof. The two major steps about this are to get other people that are living in the house adjusted to it and any pets that you have.

Steps

1. Avoid any force. This may scare away the pet if they're not used to new things or people or may have a negative reaction. If the pet is territorial about the baby being brought into the family, the bonding between the pet and baby will be more difficult and longer to attempt.
   
2. Let the pet sniff or be around the baby's belongings. If there's a blanket or toy around, don't shoo the pet away. The sniffing lets the pet adapt to the scent of the child and gives them their own opportunity to learn more about the baby in their own way.
   
3. Walk around the pet with the baby in your arms or keep a distance from the pet during play time, but don't engage in any direct contact yet. If the pet is still intimidated, stay away at a safe distance. Use a baby-soothing voice around the both of them. Ask the baby, "Whose that?" and "Is that the ______ ?" (depending what pet it is. Use "child" words, for example "doggy" or "kitty" instead of dog or cat. If you use a calm voice with the baby, he/she will develop a calm sense around the pet instead of being hyper.
   
4. Use common sense and know when it's a right time to approach the pet while it's sleeping. Don't let the baby touch the pet at this time, but let them observe with their eyes. This method will make the baby feel comfortable around the pet in a non-interaction way.
   
5. Let time pass and keep observing the behavior of both the pet and baby when they're around each other. Patience is the key:
   
   • If there is no difference, keep trying to introduce the two of them.
     
   • If there seems to be a negative reaction, it's best to keep the pet away from the child until the pet is confident and ready to be around babies and kids.
     
   • If there is a calm and positive environment between the two, encourage more interaction and playtime.
     
6. Sit down with the baby in your lap somewhere that the pet usually goes around or hangs out. Get the pet to interact with the baby by letting the animal sniff them and the baby to touch the pet's fur. Watch the baby's reactions and facial expressions to see if they enjoy it, especially if the pet starts to lick the baby's feet out of nowhere.
   

Tips

• Before bringing baby home from the hospital, it is a good idea to send something like a swaddle blanket (with hospitals permission) home with your partner. This can be left on the floor in an area your pets frequent and will allow them to get the smell of your baby before you bring him/her home, making the initial meeting between baby and pets easier.
  
• Encouragement and patience are key factors in introducing a stranger to a pet. Things may not go your way or how you would like things to go, so prepare for the complete opposite of what you wish.
  
• Always use a calm voice. A soothing tone will make everyone comfortable in this situation. The very last thing you want is to freak either of the two out.
  
• Try to get your baby to slowly pet your cat, but make sure it does not grab its ears or tail!
  

Warnings

• If the pet seems vicious or territorial around the baby, avoid interaction until they are ready for it. A negative reaction, such as barking, especially snapping towards the baby may give the baby a bad feeling about the pet. This feeling may continue on for some time.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Introduce a Pet Into a Home With Different Species of Animals
  
• How to Find a House to Rent That Allows Pets
  
• How to Select a Pet Sitter
  
• How to Be Nice to Your Pets
  
• How to Choose the Right Pet for You and Your Family
  

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How to Care for a Pet Wolf

Do you have a pet wolf but don't know how to care for it?
This will help you!

Steps

1. Once you adopt a pet wolf, feed it. Wolves may be hungry when they first get adopted.
   
2. If your wolf is lonely, get it some friends! It maybe will be lonely. But get it some friends and it will be happy!
   
3. Give your wolf some water. If your wolf looks dehydrated, give it water!
   
4. Have fun with your wolf!
   

Warnings

• Wolves may be hungry and eat your other animals. So watch out!
  
• Also, wolves are wild animals and they don't make good pets. Wolves that can't take care of themselves in the wild should be given to wildlife preservation centers.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Own a Pet Wolf
  
• How to Tame a Wolf
  
• How to Teach People All About Wolves
  

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How to Care for a Pet Rat

Mice too boring for you? Maybe you should try having pet rats. They make great pets! Rats have been called "the lower maintenance dog" in the pet world! They're sweet, smart, friendly, social, and active--as well as very entertaining--and you can learn how to take care of them through the following instructions.

Steps

1. Get your pet rats. Getting at least two of the same gender (unless they are spayed/neutered) is strongly recommended, and most good breeders/stores/rescues will not let you have one rat unless you have proof you already have one at home. It is also important you get two because rats will get very lonely and even depressed if they do not have another rat buddy to play and cuddle with. Rats are best acquired from a breeder or rescuer. They have a more intimate knowledge of the rats in their care and can help you find the "right" one. Always thoroughly research any rescuers/breeders before getting rats from them. This is often a better choice than buying pet store rats (which are usually from "mills" and little consideration is taken for their health). If you do decide to buy from a pet store, avoid rats with the following problems: red discharge around the eyes and nose, noisy breathing, open wounds, lethargy, cloudy eyes, or runny poop. The danger of getting rats from a pet store is that often mix-ups occur and the genders may be mixed. You may be only buying two rats initially, but a few weeks down the road you may get quite a surprise!
   
2. Find a veterinarian who has knowledge of and experience with rodents. It is important to do this before or right after you get your rats, so when you have an emergency you don't have to waste time flipping through the phone book looking for emergency small-animal clinics.
   
3. Buy a large cage with solid flooring, levels, and ramps. Wire flooring is painful for your rat. For every rat, there should be a minimum of 1 square foot, but 1.5 square feet or more is better. Supplement your cage with toys, hammocks, hideaways, nesting material, as well as the necessities (water bottle and a food dish). Rats love to be busy and will play with toys while you're away.
   
   • The barspacing should be no more than a 1/2 inch (chicken wire can be used to seal gaps) and the bars themselves should be powder coated to avoid rat urine corroding the bars. Rats are excellent jumpers and climbers and should be able to execute their acrobatics in their cage without flying through the bars.
     
4. Wood chips and shavings (Pine and Cedar) are dusty and contain oils that could cause respiratory infections, among other things, in rats. The ONLY wood shavings okay for rats is aspen shavings. Use a hemp, cloth, or paper bedding. Be sure the cloth isn't frayed however as they could cause your rats harm if they snag a claw and rip it off. Fleece (absorbent, and won't fray) or towels (might fray, but more absorbent) are a good bet, but you will need to change them several times a week. Another good alternative to shavings is Carefresh, a reclaimed cellulose bedding, or recycled newspaper beddings like Yesterday's News.
   
5. Spend time with your rats. The more attention you give, the more bonded, active, healthy, and friendly your rat will be. A single rat is a lonely rat and this can cause behavioral issues. Unless your rat is aggressive, they are best not left alone. It is advisable to get the rats from the same place at the same time, so as to not have to worry about quarantining them or possible introduction problems. Rat introductions can also get a little ugly especially with territorial male rats. A good spot for introductions is a big box or a bath tub.
   
6. The staple diet of your rat should consist of lab blocks or a homemade grain mix, (you can look up one called "Suebee's Diet") and, depending on the quality of the lab blocks, dog food. The rest should be supplemented with fresh and frozen fruits, veggies, cooked beans, seeds etc. Avoid giving citrus juices to male rats, as a chemical in the peel (which is usually in commercial citrus juices) binds with a protein in their kidneys, and causes cancer. Fresh citrus is fine, as long as you remove any skin and pith (the white stuff) before feeding male rats. Females do not have this problem. If you must purchase commercial rat food be aware that the corn and alfalfa pellets are undigestable and small seeds will likely go uneaten. Many vets recommend Oxbow Regal Rat, Mazuri, or Harlan Teklad lab blocks, most of which can be bought in bulk online.
   
7. Make food readily available. Rats will stop eating when they are full. Buying pre-made "rat mixes" isn't necessarily the best choice as some rats will eat only the pieces they enjoy and leave the rest. Some recommend buying "lab blocks" which are "nutritionally complete" and supplementing with fresh fruits, veggies, dry bread, yogurt. Rats may become bored eating the same thing every single meal, and can stop eating. Dog food made for Seniors (which has a lower fat content) can be a good supplement to their regular diet.
   
8. When buying rat food, ensure that it is not just seeds and nuts! These mixes contain too much protein and fat for rats. Also ensure that corn is not the number one ingredient in the mix as too much may contribute to cancer. Instead of searching for a good rat mix, you can choose to make a homemade mix such as Suebee's (see external links).
   
9. Clean their cage often! Daily "spot-checks" help maintain a clean cage, and at least weekly cleanings will ensure healthy rats. Harsh chemicals, like bleach, can harm their sensitive respiratory systems. Retail pet-friendly product like Nil-Odor work well, as does vinegar. You can even litter train your rat to make things easier on you. (See 'Tips.')
   
10. Do not leave your rats exposed to extreme temperature changes or drafts. Rats should be kept between 35 and 75 degrees Farenheit. If it is a particularly hot day, provide your ratties with some cool, shallow (1/2") water to play around in; on a cold day, a nice warm blanket.
    
11. Consider teaching your rat some tricks! Rats are very intelligent, and can learn many tricks, such as jumping through a hoop, spinning in a circle, standing up, and even giving a handshake all on spoken command. Teach tricks by starting slow, rewarding, and reinforcing with treats and praise if done correctly. No negative reinforcement. It is bad pet ownership and will confuse the rat.
    

Video

Rats get a bad rap! They are some of the friendliest and easiest to train pets available.

Tips

• This is the most important thing of all: Start saving up for vet bills! Rats might seem like low-maintenance pets, but they are prone to health problems. The most common health problems are respiratory infections, (take them to the vet if they are sneezing and wheezing!) mites, (microscopic bugs that cause tiny scabs to appear on your rat, and makes them itchy!) abscesses, (cysts, easily treated but you might need antibiotics!) and tumors. (Girls are more prone to them than boys, but if you spay them it reduces their chances of getting tumors.)
  
• Rats love other rats! A pair or even group of same-sex rats (unless they are spayed/neutered)will result in happier, healthier pets, while a lone rat may become bored, timid, clingy, or suffer depression and neurological problems.
  
• Males can easily be differentiated from females by the presence of their large testicles. They are also larger in size. As well, girls rats have nipples, and boys don't.
  
• A happy and contented rat will "brux" by chipping their teeth together. Sometimes their eyes bug out a little when they are really bruxing hard, but don't worry! This is just like a cat purring, it means your rat loves you, and it helps them to wear down their teeth.
  
• Rats love treats. Fresh veggies and fruits, healthy cereals, and baby foods are some of their favorites. Rats don't tolerate lactose well.
  
• Giving your rats ropes to climb, mazes to solve and things to chew will make them very happy.
  
• Rats don't sleep all through the night or all through the day. They are neither nocturnal nor diurnal. Instead they sleep about an hour at a time, constantly going to sleep and waking back up again. So essentially they are active at all times of the day with naps in between. Also they can sometimes be quite noisy, but usually at a tolerable level. You may prefer to keep them in a room separate from your bedroom. If you do choose to keep them in your bedroom, it is handy to keep a basket of rolled up socks nearby to throw at the cage if they get too noisy (this may sound mean, but it works really well and the worse it can do to the rats is scare them for a short while).
  
• Find an exotics vet that specializes in small mammals. They're worth their weight in gold. Keep their number on hand in case of emergency.
  
• Talk to your rats. They like it.
  
• Make food a puzzle, wrap up a snack in some paper towels or cardboard, for example.
  
• Don't overdo protein in their diet, it can cause (among other things) a nasty rash.
  
• Give your rat something to chew on, such as a toilet paper roll. They love using the chewed up pieces in their nest.
  
• Female rats tend to be more active. If you want your rat to sit on your lap for petting sessions, get a male.
  
• A good method of cleaning cages to remove the smell is to use a spray bottle of white vinegar and a spray bottle of peroxide. First spray the vinegar on the cage, then the peroxide, and wipe clean with a paper towel. This will remove odor and disinfect the cage for cheap.
  
• You can quickly train your rat to use a litter pan. Place the pan in the corner they most often use and put in a small amount of the soiled bedding. If the rest of the cage is clean, they will pick up on where the toilet smelling area is. Use a different litter in the pan than what is in the cage to help them differentiate the area. This will only work for their solid waste, as they use urine for communication and won't confine where they pee. Females tend to litter train better than males.
  
• Training a rat to come on command is easy and useful. They can be trained with positive reinforcement with food rewards. Common food rewards are rice crispies, sunflower seeds, cream cheese on finger, etc. This can be used to find missing rats and is something an owner should take the time to do.
  
• It is a misconception that rats get bumble foot from wire floors and shelves. It actually comes from walking in urine and feces all day.
  
• Rats like to hide. So put like a small box in your rats cage so it can sleep and hide there.
  
• Rats are prone to mites and skin parasites. If your rat starts to look mangy or you can see tiny orange specs moving on him, he has mites. Fortunately this is easily fixed with a spot-on flea treatment meant for kittens that is easily available from a vet. Revolution is the best bet, as some flea treatments like Frontline can be harmful to rats.
  
• Every time you are going to spend time with your pet or even feed it, try whistling, clicking your tongue, or making some other kind of noise. Whatever you choose, make sure you use the same sound all the time, every time you are going to come into contact with it. This will help your pet associate who you are and become familiar with you faster. They will become more sociable with you and may even begin coming to you when let out of their cage. Be careful though because sometimes they may associate the sound with food and may expect a treat once called, so don't give them a treat every time!
  
• If one of your rats is very timid take time to hold it. Hold him close to your chest and let your pet rest on your forearm then after a while offer your hand to him and let him/her climb on your hand. Don't pick him/her up. This will take time for your rat to trust and like you but in the end it will work.
  

Warnings

• If you don't want your females to get pregnant, then it is required that you don't keep males and females in the same cage together unless the male is neutered or the girl is spayed or else you would have more rats on your hands then expected.
  
• Avoid the urge of mating your rat and using the offspring for gene-knockout experiments.
  
• Never pick your rat up by the tail! Always use two hands to pick them up. Grasp them around the middle with one hand and use the other hand to scoop up their backside. If it is absolutely necessary you pick them up by their tail, grab them at the base of their tail. It makes it less painful for the rat and the tail won't break.
  
• Do not feed your rat sticky foods (peanut butter, caramels, marshmallows, etc.) or carbonated drinks in large amounts. They cannot regurgitate so they can choke and are not able to release gas buildup.
  
• Rats chew on everything! Keep cords, shoes, clothing and other things you don't want chewed on out of their way when they are let out of their cage.
  
• Rats are very clever and can get into spaces you wouldn't think they'd be able to. Keep a close eye on them when they're out. They like to jump off things, too.
  
• Rats have quick and severe reactions to sugar. They will become hyper should you give it to them.
  
• Rats can get sick often and are expensive to treat. They can cost a lot of money to keep, so be prepared to spend it.
  
• Rats have a bad rep. People may act really strange, mean, degrading and grossed-out when you mention you have rats. Be ready for this.
  
• Rats can be very timid, or aggressive when you first bring them home (this is especially true for pet-store rats). Be patient when handling them.
  
• Rats tend to see other animals as either predators or food, and they can kill smaller rodents.
  
• Be careful with cats and dogs. A housecat may investigate a rat as an interesting new family member, but a rat will see a cat as what it is: a predator. The rat may very well decide that the best defense is a good offense.
  
• Many rats will use a running wheel, although some will just ignore a wheel, as they are quite intelligent animals who can bore easily. Also, many rat owners argue that the wheel is damaging to the rat's back. Unlike hamsters, a rat's spine is not designed to bend that way and it could cause problems especially if the wheel is too small. A wheel for a full grown rat should be at least 15 inches in diameter. If your rat does use a running wheel, avoid wheels made with wire as their feet and tails can easily become tangled in them and cause serious injury. Solid plastic wheels are safer and can provide extra exercise.
  
• If you have a wire cage, make sure your rat, in its cage, is not walking around on the wires. Always have the floor of the cage be bedding. Placing bedding beneath the wires is unacceptable; this walking on the wires may cause your rat to develop Bumblefoot, creating serious bumps and bruises on their feet from walking on just wire all the time; imagine if you had to!
  
• Never feed a rat through their cage. Always open the door and let them take scraps of food from your hands. By feeding them through the cage they will associate everything outside as food and begin to try and bite whatever happens to brush by the cage including: people, clothing, and other pets. If you really want to despite this warning, make a certain sound, click, or noise right before giving them food through the cage, and only give them food after the noise. Alternating noise/food and no noise/finger will help them learn to lick or gently nibble your finger instead of treating it as if it were food.
  
• If you happen to get food from a pet store or come across food that is not sealed in a bag or has holes in it be sure to freeze it for a few hours before serving it to your pet. Sometimes unnoticeable, harmless bugs may drift in there and it can get rid of any unwanted pest in the house.
  
• If you get an albino rat (white fur and red eyes) be sure to keep him or her away from the sun. The sun's strong rays are harmful to albinos and can damage their eyes.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Keep a Pet Bird Quiet
  
• How to Care for Gerbils
  
• How to Care for Guinea Pigs
  

Sources and Citations

• http://www.ratsrule.com/diet.html
  
• http://rmca.org/
  
• http://www.dapper.com.au
  
• http://www.ratfanclub.org/
  
• http://www.ratclub.org
  

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How to Leave Your Pets Alone While on Vacation

If you go on vacation you will want your pet to be as comfortable as possible. This guide will outline the steps.

Steps

1. Ask to check on your pet during the time you will be gone: for example, neighbors, friends, family members, etc. Inform them of any special needs your pet has.
   
2. Prepare the house.
   
   1. Make sure that your pet has a good bed and way to go to the bathroom (doggy door or litter box).
      
   2. Leave the heat or AC on in the areas of the house that the pet occupies.
      
   3. Place all supplies the person will need to care for the pet in an obvious, but pet proof place: treats, food, leash, notes, etc.
      
   4. "Pet-proof" the house. Put anything that your pet might get into far out of their reach.
      
3. Go away! Have a great time on your vacation and call the sitter to check up if you think it's necessary.
   
4. Return home and be sure to thank the sitter. You may have arranged to pay them something; if not, tip them or at least give them some baked goods. This will ensure that they will want to pet-sit again.
   

Kennel

If your pet is too young, old, or misbehaved to be left alone for long periods of time the kennel is a good option. The level of human or animal company your pet will have varies from place to place.

1. Call the kennel service before you leave on your vacation to schedule drop-off and pick-up times. If you have never done this before be sure to ask friends which kennel is best.
   
2. Gather up all necessary items for the pet: food, bowls, bed, toys, leash, etc.
   
3. Drop your pet off at the kennel and go on your vacation.
   
4. Pick them up when you come back and make sure they are well. Some pets react badly to kennels, so you may want to give them a little extra attention the next few days.
   

Tips

• Double check before you leave that the pet-sitter is available.
  

Things You'll Need

• Pet(s)
  
• Trip
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Make Sure Your Hamster (or Any Other Pet) Is Taken Care of While You Are Gone
  
• How to Effectively Take Care of a Domestic Animal or Pet
  
• How to Have a Pet Friendly Vacation
  
• How to Pet Sit
  

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How to Hire a Pet Sitter or Dog Walker

The world of dog walking and pet sitting is unregulated in most areas so anyone can potentially call themselves a professional Dog Walker or Pet Sitter. But, much like choosing the best care-givers for your children, it is essential that you make every effort to ensure you find a qualified, trustworthy and professional pet sitter and dog walker. You are entrusting the health and well-being of your pet family members to their care so ask the following 10 questions about Pet Sitting/Dog Walking professionals before you hire them:

Steps

1. What are their Qualifications? Make sure your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker is certified to care for your pet. Pet Sitting/Dog Walking is generally an unregulated industry but there are nationally recognized standards and professional organizations that set criteria and certify qualified professionals. Make sure your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker is certified with a recognized organization. Ask to see their certificate and make sure it is current. You are paying for a trained professional and that’s what you should be getting.
   
2. Who trains their staff? In addition to the company’s qualifications you should ask them how they train their staff and if they have an internal certification process. It is important to know who within the company is responsible for staff training and maintaining standards.
   
3. What is their Work Ethic and Professional reputation in your community? Does your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker look, dress, and act professional? If you can, observe your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker on the job with other clients. Watch how they handle the pets in their care. Are they on their cell phone or “texting” while they are supposed to be watching their clients at the Dog Park or are they fully attentive and interacting with the pets in their charge?
   
4. What are the company’s mission, values and ethics? Check the company’s website and marketing literature. What is their vision and do they explicitly state their ethics? If they do what they say will tell you a lot about how they view their profession and it is something you can compare their performance against. If they do not explicitly state their values and ethics why not?
   
5. What is their philosophy on animal handling and care and what kind and type of equipment to they provide and use? Know what type of equipment your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker use and what they provide. Do they use choke chains? How many dogs are they willing to walk at once? Many Pet Sitters/Dog Walkers will not use certain types of collars and leashes for safety reasons and they limit the number of dogs they will walk at one time. This assures the safety and well-being of the animals they are responsible for.
   
6. Can they provide references? Ask the Pet Sitter/Dog Walker for references from past and current clients. Customers are usually happy to share their opinion. They will be happy to tell you their experience.
   
7. Do you and your pets have chemistry with the Pet Sitter/Dog Walker? You want to feel good about your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker and be able to trust them to look after your pets so personal chemistry is important. Chemistry is also important between your pets and the Pet Sitter/Dog Walker. Pet Sitting/Dog Walking is a personal relationship so you must hire someone you can have confidence in. Make sure you are happy with the person who will actually be caring for your pets. They should be patient during the initial consultation and answer all of your questions.
   
8. Can you check their background and do they do background checks on all of their employees? Some Pet Sitters/Dog Walkers may seem great when you meet them and say all of the right things but you are entrusting them with your pets and sometimes access to your home. You should confirm that the Pet Sitting/Dog Walking Company does background checks on their workers and you should look into the background of the company. You can use the internet or get more detailed information by using a background check service. Reputable Pet Sitting/Dog Walking companies will be happy to have you check their background.
   
9. What is their knowledge base? Does your Pet Sitting/Dog Walking Company understand animal behavior, first aid, nutrition and emergency procedures? Ask some tough questions that will reveal their knowledge or lack of knowledge. And how do they handle questions they don’t know? Do they try to “snow” you are do they simply admit that they don’t’ know?
   
10. And finally, do they have Liability Insurance and Bonding? Hopefully, if you gone through the previous 9 steps this last step will never matter. However, accidents do happen and you should make sure that your Pet Sitter/Dog Walker carries the appropriate Liability Insurance and that they are fully bonded
    

Tips

• Do not just hire the teenager next door, in an emergency your pets lives will depend on their caretaker.
  
• Make sure while you are away there is a communication system in place so you can be sure your pets are being well cared for
  
• Remember if you make an effort to learn about your pet sitting/dog walking professional you will be rewarded with a reliable and trustworthy Pet Sitter for your beloved pet family members.
  

Warnings

• Hiring unprofessional personal to care for your pets and your home can have devastating consequences
  
• Make sure when you hire a pet care provider that you do your home work, ask the right questions and remember if you are paying for a service then the people you are hiring should be professionals. Pet care providers have a huge responsibility. They care for our pets and often our homes too.
  

Things You'll Need

• Client references from your potential pet care provider
  
• Access to a pet care software system where you can read communication updates from your pet care technician
  
• A copy of the pet care technician liability insurance
  
• A scheduled home visit consultation prior to making a decision about hiring a pet care company
  

Sources and Citations

• http://www.DogSmith.com
  
• http://www.DogSmithFranchise.com
  

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How to Choose Your Horse

Lots of people have dreams of owning a horse. However, once you're confronted with the option of actually getting one, you may all of a sudden become a kid in a candy store; there are so many types of horses to choose from! How do you choose the right one for you?

Steps

1. Consider the following before choosing a horse.
   
   • Do you have enough money and time for a horse? Horses are a serious investment.
     
   • Do you have the time to care for your horse?
     
   • Do you have a place for your horse to stay (such as a barn) or a place where you can board the horse?
     
   • Why do you want a horse (such as competition or pleasure)? Is that a good reason?
     
   • Are you ready to take on such a commitment? Horses can live for a long time--more than 20 years!
     
   • Do you have the necessary supplies? You'll need lots of stuff to care for and ride your horse, including tack, grooming supplies, and feed.
     
   • Do you have contacts? Every horse needs a good farrier and vet, and, in some cases, a skilled trainer. Having these phone numbers ahead of time can save your horse's life in an emergency.
     
2. Decide whether you want a horse or pony. Some people think a pony is a baby horse, but this is not true! Ponies are similar to horses, except ponies are generally smaller. Though ponies are smaller than horses ponies can seem more stubborn and it is sometimes a better choice to choose a horse with a better tempermant then a pony just because of it's size. The difference between a pony and a horse is their size, ponies being smaller than 14.2 hands (58 inches) at the withers, and horses are +14.2 hands.
   
3. Decide on a specific breed of horse you would like to own. Some horse breeds include the spunky and highly spirited Thoroughbred horse, or a gentle giant like the Belgian or Clydesdale. Whatever the breed, be sure to research the breed to make sure it's the one you truly want.
   
4. Keep an open mind about the color of a horse versus its behavior. You may come across a horse that is both a breed and color you love, but if the horse is not well behaved, you might regret the choice. If you take home a horse with an excellent temperament, you will likely not regret your choice even if it is not exactly your favorite color or breed.
   
5. Nonetheless, don't buy a horse if you are uncertain about its breed or color. Even though you shouldn't buy a horse because it looks right, you shouldn't buy a horse if you honestly dislike the way it looks. If you are buying a horse, you should take the time to find the perfect horse, instead of settling for one you don't like.
   
6. Think about the future. Ask yourself, "If I choose this horse and take it home, will I be truly happy and be able to love the horse? In years to come, can I look back on this moment and know I made the best decision?" If the answer is no, don't buy the horse.
   
7. Meet the horse you're considering buying and spend time with him at his current home. See him in as many environments as possible, like his stall, the arena, and outside, and do everything with him you'd normally do at home, like tacking him up, bathing him, and, of course, riding him.
   
   • Look at his physical appearance. Make sure he is healthy and in good shape. Pay special attention to his legs and his face, especially his eyes, nose, ears, and mouth. If something looks wrong, ask the owner about it. If he doesn't know, ask someone else to look at it.
     
   • Make sure he stays calm at all times. If he's nervous at home, where everything is familiar, consider if the extra fear he'll likely experience in a strange environment will be too much for you to handle.
     
   • Get to know his personality. Having a smart, kind horse will be much more fun than having a beautiful but spooky or mean horse.
     
   • Watch out for vices. Is he girthy? Does he crib? Does he kick at other horses? Carefully consider if you can handle every single one of his bad habits before you put your money - and your safety - on the line.
     
8. Enlist professional help in making this enormous decision. No matter how experienced you are, you can always fall for the wrong horse and be left penniless and heartbroken.
   
   • Ask an experienced trainer to look at the horse and possibly even ride him. If you know the trainer well, ask him if he thinks the horse is a good match for you.
     
   • Get a thorough vet check. No matter how expensive, a vet check is always worth it. Even you don't want to spend $500 on a horse you don't even own, consider what it would be like to spend $10,000 on a horse you do own - and can't sell. Many owners will pay for this themselves to get a horse sold.
     

Tips

• Be picky about the health and well-being of a horse you are thinking about buying.
  
• Check out the classified ads to get an idea of the horses for sale in your area. Visit any horse or pony before you buy it. You want to meet the horse so you can more easily decide if it's right for you. If the horse does not behave, kicks, bites, and so forth, then don't buy it, no matter how stunning the horse may be!. You want a well-behaved animal, especially if it is your first horse.
  
• Take riding lessons at a local barn before buying.
  

• It is recommended that once you have decided on your horse, and are happy to buy him, that you make an agreement with the current owners to take the horse on a week 'trial' period and leave a deposit. This would mean that you take the horse to your yard and try him out. If he is nothing like you thought he was, you have the right to return him. This is a sensible and safe thing to do, if both parties are happy to do so.
  

Warnings

• You must love the horse. Don't purchase one just because you're impatient or just to buy a horse for the sake of buying it! Remember, a horse is a lifelong commitment, and you want to feel that owning your horse is 100 percent worth the effort.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Choose a New Horse
  
• How to Be Safe Around Horses
  
• How to Care for Your Horse In the Winter
  
• How to Approach Your Horse
  
• How to Convince Your Parents to Let You Buy a Horse
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Choose Your Horse. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.


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How to Buy a Horse

Buying a horse is a big investment, and owning one takes a lot of time and money, but it does have so many great, memorable rewards. Before you buy a horse, you should make sure you have found one that fits your personality and other possible riders, and is suitable for what you want to do. There are a lot of pitfalls that may not only be expensive, but heartbreaking. Find the right horse and you can have a long, happy relationship.

Steps for Preparation

1. Make sure you really want a horse, and if you are having to read this, try to contact a trainer and let them know that you plan on buying a horse in the future. This will catch their attention as you might be a long term client, they already know the ins and outs of the horse world, and will be a great help. Make sure you realize the level of commitment required and the effect it will have on you and your family.
   
2. If you're getting regular or any type of riding lessons, be sure to tell your instructor or coach that you are looking to buy a horse or pony. Often they have clients that may be selling a horse, and your instructor may be able to help you try a particular horse out.
   
3. Learn all you can about horse management. This should include basic horse health and equine first aid. See Related wikiHows. Also go to your local library and look for all the horse related books.
   
4. Learn your local laws. From equine liability to whether there is a local tax on livestock that can reproduce (mares & stallions), to fire code laws for stables, it helps to have all the information.
   
5. Learn about your local resources. Find out about boarding facilities, tack shops, feed stores, farmers that produce hay, vets and farriers are in your area, and where the nearest equine hospital and horse ambulance service is.
   
6. Make sure that you have access to a feed supplier, as a horse is a 'real life garden disposal unit', and they need to be fed. Usually a local farrier is able to include you in his or her rounds, but make sure that you have phone numbers of a few, in case you can't get hold of your regular one.
   
7. A reputable equine vet is essential. You will want to have Experienced horsemen (and or women) to be able to call to ask for advice and in the begining, look over your horse.
   
8. Figure what you are going to pay for your horse’s upkeep. Go to a feed stockist and price the basic feed (hay, chaff and pellets), then add the cost of a saddle, bridle, saddle cloth, lead, halter, bit, grooming kit, and water containers. (This would be an outright cost, but the upkeep would be in addition to this). Include the cost of transport if you do not own your own horse float or truck, as well as stable.
   
9. Don't forget to budget for:
   
   • Horse food (Hay and some kind of feed)
     
   • Decent tack (saddle and bridle)
     
   • Regular vet visits
     
   • Deworming
     
   • Shots
     
   • Regular farrier visits (shoeing or trimming)
     
   • Emergency treatment
     
   • Riding lessons
     
   • Training
     
   • Equipment and supplies
     
   • All appropriate medical check ups and supplies
     
10. Find a suitable place to keep your horse. Keeping your horse on your own or rented land should be done only by knowledgeable and experienced horsepeople. Livery/boarding yards are more suitable for a first-time horse owner. Look in ads in local papers, equestrian magazines and on the Internet. Ask in local tack shops and riding schools. If a yard (stable) has no spaces, ask them to recommend another yard.
    
11. Visit a number of boarding facilities and ask about hours, the cost, feeding schedule, as well as what you'll be expected to do. If it's rough board, you will have to feed, water, and clean your horse's area every day yourself. If it is full board, all you have to do is pay! Choose one that meets your horse's needs (e.g. safe, all-year turnout), where you feel comfortable (e.g. friendly people), and that meets your needs (e.g. an indoor school, showers) in that order. Some barns cater to young riders, while others prefer adults-only.
    
12. Secure a space at a yard you like. At good yards spaces are rarely available and fill fast. Be prepared to pay a weekly/monthly fee to keep the space reserved.
    
13. If you plan to have your horse at your house, have an expert help you plan the fencing. Make sure the fencing is secure and is taller than 1.5 meters and that there is no wire or anything that the horse can injure itself on. Do not use barbed wire. Ensure you have an adequate water container to supply large amounts of water, have a separate feed dish away from the water.
    

Searching for Your Horse

1. Make a list of what you want the horse to be. This can include, size, gender, age, health, discipline and training, color, price, breed, and pedigree.
   
2. Tell people that you are looking for a horse. Word of mouth is the best way to find a horse. Tell people like instructors, farriers, vets and tack shop owners. These people have a lot of contact with the horse owners.
   
3. Advertise the fact you are looking for a horse. ‘Horse Wanted’ signs can go up in local tack shops, vet clinics, local and national horse magazines, and the Internet.
   
4. Look for for sale ads in local tack shops, vet clinics, local and national horse magazines, and the Internet (dreamhorse.com works well).
   
5. Ask around for a dealer with a good reputation.
   
6. If you are new with owning horses, a good bet would be buying one 'used' horse which would usually have a better temperment and the horse would have been ridden already. If you are buying a horse like this, make sure the rider has a similar riding level to yours or else danger may occur. The average family horse will often make great horses for new riders.
   

Assessing a Horse

1. Make a list of things you want to ask the owner. For example:
   
   • Confirm everything in the advert; age, height, colour, breed etc
     
   • History and breeding
     
   • Competition and medical history
     
   • Reason for sale
     
   • Any vices or bad habits (biting, kicking, bucking, cribbing)
     
   • The horse’s current management
     
   • Any security markings and registrations (microchipping, breed societies)
     
   • If tack/equipment is included or can be bought cheaply from the current owner
     
   • How well the horse travels
     
2. Contact the owner, of any horse that matches your criteria.
   
3. Ask as many questions as possible to avoid wasted trips to view unsuitable horses.
   
4. Check with any competition bodies or hunts to see if the owner's claims of wins, etc. are true. If the horse is security marked you may be able to check to see if the horse is stolen. Find out about stolen horse databases in your country. See External Links.
   
5. Visit the horse at least twice!
   
   • First visit Turn up a little earlier than agreed and try to see the horse handle in the stable/field. Ask to see him in different situations depending on what you want to do with him, and what the owner has claimed the horse can do; i.e. ridden by the owner/a child and by you, in traffic, in the stable and paddock, with other horses etc. If tack/equipment is included in the price, also inspect that.
     
   • Second visit If you think the horse is worth a second visit, take an experienced friend or professional with you on one of the visits. Someone that knows your level of riding is best, like your instructor. Be prepared to pay for the time of a professional. When you find a horse you like, the best advice is "sleep on it". Don't just accept the horse and hand over the money. On the second visit, maybe try negotiating the price.
     
   • Get The Horse On Trial Though many people do not like to have their horse on trial, it makes the decision making a lot easier. It allows you to ride the horse for 2 weeks, having it at your house, and it also allows you to take it to Pony Club or to a Show and see how it performs. Discuss this with the owner of the horse, you may be able to come up with a decision. (Most trials are a 1 or 2 week term, but some can be up to 1 month or more, in this time you are responsible for the horse, including financially.)
     

Buying the Horse

1. Tell the owner if you want to buy. Agree on a price, subject to vetting, and ask to put down a deposit (10% of the price is fair) to secure the horse.
   
2. Have the vet come and check the horse before you put full money down, this is expensive, but most insurance companies demand a certificate anyway.
   
3. Find out what the horse has been fed. You must change the diet slowly over a week or two. Buy feed from the current owner if necessary.
   
4. Insure the horse before you transport him.
   
5. Prepare a safe area, either a stable or a paddock with friendly horses. Get any basic equipment for feeding, grooming, traveling and some rugs if the horse needs them. You may get some of these with the horse.
   
6. Find a way to transport your horse to your horse's new home. If you don’t have a trailer or horsebox you can hire them with a driver or self-drive. Find out the law about transporting horses, and if your driving licence covers it.
   
7. Allow your horse to settle in peacefully, and be careful introducing it to new horses. Try and keep to the horse's old routine as closely as possible for the first week.
   

Negotiating

• Don’t choose a horse just because it’s cheap. A problem horse is not for a beginner and they will cost more (in terms of money and sanity) in the long run.
  
• Less attractive horses, horses with superficial scars or growths, horses of a less popular color and part, cross or unknown breeds, often go cheaper while not being less suitable, unless you intend to show.
  
• Many owners are more willing to give you tack and equipment or transport the horse for you, than lower the price.
  
• Buy at the end of the competition season, in or at the start of winter, as prices will be lower (with the exception of hunters, which are best bought in spring or summer)
  
• Aim to pay the selling price, but ask if they would take a particular figure (10%-20% under the asking price).
  
• Remember, if you already have a saddle, you will still need a bridle that fits the horse. If the owner is selling the horse with tack included, you can always sell the equipment you do not need, and this way, you are not paying for equipment you're not going to use.
  

Alternatives to Buying

• Look into adopting a horse for a reputable rescue organisation. There will still most likely be an adoption fee. You will not legally own the horse, and will not be able to breed or sell him. If you can no longer care for the horse the rescue organisation will take him back.
  
• Loaning a horse is similar to adopting one, but the owner will be a private owner. Loans can be long or short term.
  
• Sharing a horse involves caring and riding a horse for part of the week as well as making a financial contribution to the horses up-keep. The horse is usually owned by one person.
  
• Work for rides is similar to sharing a horse, but no money passes hands.
  
• Leasing a horse is another alternative to buying a horse.
  

Tips

• Remember, a good horse will live a very long time. Make sure you think about your horse five years or so from when you buy. Its not about today and tomorrow, its about the many years you will spend time together.
  
• Look at more than one horse!
  
• Keeping a horse on your own land is cheaper but requires a bigger commitment as there are fewer people to help you. It makes going on holiday very difficult.
  
• Do not fall in love with a horse's color. Good horses and bad ones come in all colors.
  
• Don't be too picky about height. A small, round cob may be more suitable for long legs, than a tall narrow thoroughbred. If you're buying a horse for your child, don't buy the horse just because it's small. Make sure it is trained and suitable for your child. Would you rather have your child riding a green pony or a gentle, calm draft horse?
  
• Ask if the horse has been measured or if the owner is guessing the height, especially if the horse/pony is close to pony height and you intend to compete or show.
  
• Offer to let the owners view where you will be keeping the horse and ask your instructor/local hunt etc. to act as referees. Show the owner proof of any equine achievements, such as competition wins or qualifications.
  
• Tell the owner if you don’t want the horse. It is polite and lets them know what’s happening.
  
• If the owner has a trailer or horsebox, ask if they can transport the horse for you. If you officially take ownership of the horse at the end of the journey, you avoid laws about accepting money for transporting another’s horse.
  
• Beauty is nothing on an unsuitable or unsound horse. They will also be more expensive.
  
• When budgeting the price of a horse’s upkeep, work out how much a horse will cost for a month at the most expensive time in the year (usually winter), add 50% and x12.
  
• Build a network of horse people. You’ll need them!
  
• If you really want a horse just for a pet, not riding, consider getting a miniature horse. They are great companions, but you must be sure you can provide very good care and exercise.
  
• Try bring a horse riding friend or your riding instructor with you so they can help you find the perfect horse.
  

Warnings

• Do not buy an old, disease-prone, untrained (if you know you will not be able to train it) or dangerous horse just because he "is so cute and needs a good home". The old horse will not be around very long and, like the disease-prone horse, could cost you more than he's worth in vet bills. Older horses can be a great beginner horse for first time horses or little children. The untrained and dangerous horses will not earn their keep, and someone could get hurt.
  
• Make sure you know the difference between a gelding and a stallion. Some crazy people will get rid of an unwanted stallion by trying to convince a less experienced horse person that he is a gelding. Don't be dumb enough to fall for that one!
  
• If the owners don’t want you to view the horse with a professional, or allow you to get the horse vetted, walk away. Chances are, there's something very wrong with the horse.
  
• Do not let a horse dealer talk you in to buying an unsuitable. If you hear him say something like "Well, when he's working, you can't even notice the crooked foot", walk away.
  
• Not all dealers have yours, or the horse's, the best interests in mind. Go to dealers by recommendation, and walk away if you are unhappy with anything. Check that all the horses on the yard are healthy and happy.
  
• Don't keep a horse alone. If you are keeping your new horse at your home, get him or her a buddy - perhaps an old retired horse, a goat, a mini horse, or another similar creature. Horses are very social and it is near-abusive to deny them socialization.
  
• If you decide to loan or share a horse or if you take one on trial, make sure you have a contract stating: how the horse should be cared for, where he should be kept and what activities he should be used for, and what will happen if the horse becomes sick or injured, or dies while in your care.
  
• Be sure to get a Bill of Sale or at least a receipt when you buy the horse. Don't be embarrassed to ask - chances are you don't know the sellers well!
  
• When looking at horses to buy, don't visit unless you are truly interested and can afford the said horse. You may end up with a broken heart, and you will have wasted the seller and the horse's time!
  
• When viewing, ask the owner to ride the horse before you try it. If the owner will not ride, regardless of the excuse, do not ride the horse.
  
• Horse ownership is a huge responsibility. Make sure you have enough support, money, time and knowledge to look after a horse.
  
• In the EU a horse must have a passport. The owner should hand this over to you. It is illegal if they don’t. Change the ownership on it as soon as possible.
  
• Moving home is a stressful time for a horse. Be sympathetic and don't ride that day. But start training and riding them the next day. They adjust quickly and will forget everything if all they do is have R&R. Start what you will be doing as soon as possible (Trail, Cart, Show, etc.)
  
• Buying a horse unseen (without going to view them) is not recommended. Even if you must go across the country or to another country, the cost is small compared to the price of buying and transporting the horse. If you do request photos and videos to see the horse walk & trot in a straight. Try to get someone you trust to view the horse.
  
• Buying a horse without getting him checked by the vet is not recommended. You will probably have to have it done anyway to get the horse insured.
  
• Buying from a sale or auction is not recommended for first-time owners without the services of a professional.
  

Things You'll Need

• A plan
  
• An extreme desire to own a horse
  
• Parents or partner that are willing to let you have a horse
  
• A place to keep your horse and companion animal(s)
  
• Supplies to care for your horse, including a regular, reliable income
  
• Horse feed and feeding equipment
  
• Rugs
  
• Tack if intending to ride
  
• Driving equipment if intending to drive
  
• Grooming kit
  
• Tools to muck out if the horse is to be stabled
  
• A trainer and/or knowledge of horse training and behavior
  
• A kind loving heart/soft spot for horses
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Get Free Information About Horses
  
• How to Look After a Horse
  
• How to Know What Is Normal for a Horse
  
• How to Give First Aid to a Horse
  
• How to Make Money to Board Your Horse if You're Under 16 Years Old
  
• How to Take Care of a Horse
  
• How to Feed Your Horse Vitamins Properly
  
• How to Find a Good Fly Spray for a Horse
  
• How to Choose the Right Pet for You
  
• How to Ride a Horse or Pony
  
• How to Overcome Your Fear of Horses
  
• How to Select a Breyer Model Horse
  
• How to Buy the Right Horse
  
• How to Make a Horse Feel Comfortable at a Horse Show
  
• How to Find a Good Horse Trainer
  

Sources and Citations

• Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) UK UK agriculture law.
  
• British Horse Society (BHS) UK based charity offering information on UK equine law, an exam system, and a list of approved riding centres and instructors.
  
• The Stolen Horse Register UK
  
• Farmkey For information on horses freezemarked by Farmkey. UK
  
• Stolen Horse International UK
  
• Find Horses for Sale - Equestrian Classifieds
  
• Horses for Sale - Equine Classifieds
  

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How to Care for Pet Lemmings

Lemmings and to be more precise, Steppe lemmings make really great pets. Not only will they keep you amused for hours as you watch them run around in their cages but you can tame them to run around in your hands fairly easily. Learning how to care for your pet lemmings is the best way to ensure that you have a long and happy relationship with your pet.

Steps

1. When you get pet lemmings, it is a good idea to get two of the same sex. They are sociable creatures although they do tend to play fight a lot, which can be scary to watch at first but you will soon get used to them running around, fighting over which one gets to play on the toys. Two females are the better option here as two males will tend to fight more often and occasionally, it can get nasty.
   
2. It is vitally important that you get the cage for your lemmings before you get the pets themselves. Two lemmings will happily gnaw through the cardboard box the pet shop provides them in, in about an hour and unless you want to be searching endlessly around your home for the fast little critters, make sure that everything is ready so that you can pop them in the cage as soon as you get home. The cage itself needs to be big enough for them to run around in happily, preferably with more than one level and also with close-knit bars because they can escape through the smallest of holes.
   
3. Make sure that you have sufficient bedding and toys for your new pet lemmings to play with. Toilet roll tubes are great because they can munch their way through them as well as running in and out of them and this makes for cheap lemming entertainment. Small houses and rodent hammocks also provide hours of fun but they will be destroyed fairly quickly. You should provide the lemmings with a small empty, clean box for them to make a nest in but make sure that there are two exits from the box because they do have a tendency to get a bit territorial. All of that plus a wheel for exercise and your lemmings will be more than happy.
   
4. This is the difficult bit – the pet lemming’s diet. They are naturally sugar intolerant creatures so you cannot feed them hamster and other types of rodent food that you get from a pet store. Most large stores will be able to provide you with specific lemming food and there are websites online that you can get it from. You cannot feed your pet lemmings fruit or anything that naturally contains sugar as this will make them rather ill.
   

Tips

• Lemmings can get out of the smallest of holes, much in the same way that mice can, so make sure that the cage that you get them has bars close enough together so that they cannot get out.
  
• Any cardboard boxes and tubes from household waste can be used to provide entertainment for your lemmings so make sure they are clean, recycle at the same time and watch your new pets play happily.
  

Warnings

• Make sure that you only feed specific lemming food to your pet lemmings. Other types of rodent food do contain sugar and will make your little friends very poorly!
  

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